Ming Yang
I've lost count of how many times I've rescued exhausted tourists at the Baoguo Temple entrance. Just last week, a couple from Spain had followed a blogger's 3-day itinerary and ended up crying. Why? They missed the last cable car down. That's when I realized most foreign travelers overestimate the Mount Emei hiking trail. They think it's a gentle walk through bamboo groves. It's not. It's a brutal 50 km of stone steps that climb 3,099 meters. Here's the thing: to truly enjoy this UNESCO site, you need to start by 6 am from the north gate, skip the middle section, and take the cable car most of the way. I'll explain every detail below.
Why the Standard Mount Emei Hiking Trail Map Fails You
Every map you find online shows the same route: Baoguo Temple → Qingyin Pavilion → Xixiang Pond → Golden Summit. It's a straight line. But what they don't tell you is that between Qingyin Pavilion and Xixiang Pond, there are 9,000 stairs that will destroy your knees. I always tell my clients to take the shuttle bus from Baoguo Temple to Wuyiangang – that cuts out the most monotonous section. Then hike from Wuyiangang up to Xixiang Pond (about 2.5 hours). From there, take the cable car to the summit. This saves 4 hours of painful steps.
My Recommended 2-Day Mount Emei Hiking Trail Itinerary
Day 1: Baoguo Temple to Xixiang Pond (The Secret Path)
Start at North Gate (Baoguo Temple) at 6:30 am. Buy your ticket online through the WeChat mini-program before coming – the line at 7 am is already 100 people deep. Take the free shuttle to Wuyiangang (15 minutes). From Wuyiangang, walk uphill through the monkey zone. The monkeys here are aggressive; don't carry plastic bags or food in your hands. Stick to the trail – it's well marked in English. By 11 am you'll reach Xixiang Pond. Check into a guesthouse there (I recommend Xixiang Hotel, rooms from ¥280, clean but basic). Rest your legs. In the afternoon, walk 10 minutes down to the wild monkey reserve – far less crowded than the middle section.
| Segment | Distance | Time | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baoguo Temple → Wuyiangang (bus) | ~15 km | 15 min | Easy |
| Wuyiangang → Xixiang Pond (hike) | ~6 km | 2.5–3 h | Moderate |
| Xixiang Pond → Golden Summit (cable car) | ~2 km | 10 min | Easy |
Day 2: Summit at Dawn – The Golden Summit Experience
Wake up at 4:30 am. Use the headlamp you packed. Walk 5 minutes to the cable car station – it opens at 5:00 am. Be in line by 4:45. The first car goes at 5:15, and you'll reach the top by 5:30. Sunrise is around 6:30 depending on season. The view of the sea of clouds and the golden statue of Samantabhadra is unmatched. After sunrise, explore the temples (Huazang Temple, etc.), then take the cable car back down before 9 am to avoid the incoming crowds. Use the same shuttle bus back to the north gate. Total cost for a solo traveler: about ¥500, split ¥100 ticket + ¥200 accommodation + ¥120 meals + ¥80 cable cars.
The Real Challenge: Physical Preparation
The Mount Emei hiking trail is not a flat walk. It's 50 km of uneven stone steps. Your knees will hurt if you're not used to descending. I recommend doing squat exercises and stair climbing for two weeks before your trip. Also, bring trekking poles – they reduce knee strain by 30%. I prefer the collapsible carbon ones (available at Decathlon in Chengdu for ¥200).
What to Pack for the Mount Emei Hiking Trail
Most packing lists online are useless. Here's what you really need:
- Waterproof hiking boots – the steps are mossy and wet even on sunny days.
- Quick-dry clothing – you'll sweat a lot; cotton is a disaster.
- Headlamp – for the early morning cable car queue.
- Water bottle with filter – there are refill stations at temples but tap water is not safe. Or buy bottled water (¥5-10 along the trail).
- Cash – most vendors above 2,000 meters only take cash or WeChat, and international cards won't work.
- Insect repellent – mosquitoes at Xixiang Pond are aggressive at dusk.
Navigating Tickets, Permits, and the WeChat Maze
Yes, navigating the WeChat mini-program in pure Chinese to book the Mount Emei hiking trail ticket is a nightmare even for me. But here's a trick: ask your hotel receptionist in Chengdu or Leshan to do it for you. The ticket price is ¥160 (peak season March–November) or ¥110 (off-season). Senior visitors over 60 get 50% off. No need for a separate hiking permit – the ticket covers the entire scenic area. You can also buy at the gate, but expect a 30-minute queu.
Where to Stay on the Mountain
I've slept in nearly every lodge. Here's my honest take:
- Xixiang Hotel (near Xixiang Pond) – best location for sunset views. ¥280-350. Has electric blankets (mountain nights are cold). Wi-Fi is decent. Staff speak minimal English.
- Jinding Hotel (on the summit) – overpriced at ¥600-800, but you can watch sunrise without the cable car queue. Only worth it if budget isn't an issue.
- Avoid the guesthouses near the monkey zone – noisy, dirty, and monkeys steal your food.
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