Chen Liu
What's Inside This Guide
I've been guiding travelers through Hainan for over a decade, and I can tell you right now: most tourists skip Haikou for Sanya, but they're missing out. Haikou has a raw, unpolished charm—old colonial streets, a massive volcano crater you can actually hike into, and the kind of seafood that makes you forget you're on a budget. This 5-day itinerary is designed for first-timers who want to see the real Haikou without rushing. I've personally tested every route, suffered through the wrong bus stops, and found the best times to beat the crowds. Let me save you the trouble.
Day 1: Old Town Charm & First Night Bites
Morning Arrival: Most flights land at Haikou Meilan International Airport. Grab a taxi (around 80-100 RMB to city center) or take the subway line 1 to Qilou Old Street area. The subway is cheaper but involves a transfer if your hotel isn't near a station. I usually tell my groups to book a hotel near Guomao or Qilou—walkable to everything.
Afternoon: Start at Qilou Old Street. These arcade-style buildings are a mix of Southeast Asian and Chinese architecture. Insider tip: Go around 3 PM when the light filters through the arcades—perfect photos. Wander into the narrow alleys; you'll find small shops selling local snacks like Laoshan coffee and Hainan noodles. Entry is free. Spend about 2 hours.
Evening: Head to Haida University Night Market around 6 PM. It's a 15-minute taxi from the old town (about 15 RMB). This market is where locals go—I've taken countless groups here. Must-try items: grilled oysters with garlic (10-15 RMB for 3), coconut rice, and spicy crawfish. Bring cash; some stalls don't accept cards. The whole stretch is about 500 meters, so you can graze for 2 hours. Be prepared for crowds starting at 7 PM.
Day 2: Volcanic Crater & Sunset Beach
Morning (8:30-12:00): Haikou Volcanic Cluster Global Geopark is about 30 minutes from city center by taxi (around 60 RMB). The park features a dormant volcano crater you can hike down into. Pro tip: Arrive right at 8:30 when it opens—you'll have the crater almost to yourself. By 10 AM tour groups flood in. Entrance fee is around 60 RMB for adults (check their WeChat mini-program for current prices; it fluctuates). Allow 2-3 hours to explore the crater rim and the lava tunnels. Wear good walking shoes; the steps are steep.
Lunch: Try Shishan Hainan Chicken near the park. I recommend Wenchang Chicken Restaurant on the main road. A whole chicken is about 80 RMB, served with ginger dipping sauce. They accept WeChat Pay but not international cards.
Afternoon (2:00-5:00): Head to Jihai Beach. It's a 40-minute taxi from the volcano (around 70 RMB). This is the main public beach in Haikou. The sand isn't pristine, but the water is swimmable. There are changing rooms (5 RMB) and showers. Insider tip: Rent a beach umbrella for 50 RMB—the sun is brutal even in January. You can also try paragliding or jet skiing if you're adventurous.
Evening (5:30-7:00): Walk to Xixiu Beach adjacent to Jihai—it's a 15-minute walk along the coast. This is the best spot for sunset. Bring a drink and sit on the seawall. I always tell my groups: the sunset crowd starts thinning after 6:30, so stay till the sky turns purple.
Day 3: Movie Magic or Wildlife – You Choose
Today offers two options depending on your interests. Both are about 30 minutes from the city center but in opposite directions.
Option A: Mission Hills Movie Town. This is a retro film set with 1940s Shanghai and Chongqing streets. It's popular with Chinese tourists—tickets are around 150 RMB. My take: If you're into photography, go early (9 AM). Otherwise, skip it—it's mostly souvenir shops and staged performances. I'd only recommend if you're a fan of Chinese cinema.
Option B: Hainan Tropical Wildlife and Botanical Garden. This is a better choice if you want a more natural experience. It's a drive-through safari park where you can feed giraffes and see rare Hainan gibbons. Ticket is around 120 RMB. Bring your own snacks—the on-site restaurant is overpriced. I usually take families here; kids love it. Allow 3-4 hours.
Afternoon (both options): Return to city center for a late lunch. I recommend Boat-shaped Seafood Market near the Port. You pick live seafood from tanks, and they cook it for a small fee. A full crab and prawn meal runs about 150 RMB per person. Note: No English menus, but you can point at what you want.
Day 4: Mangroves, Red Soil and Local Flavors
Morning (9:00-12:00): Dongzhai Port Mangrove Nature Reserve is a 45-minute drive east (taxi about 100 RMB). This is one of China's largest mangrove forests. You take a boardwalk through the trees and then a boat ride (30 RMB). Insider tip: Visit on a cloudy day—the sun makes the mud flats glimmer, but it's hot. Bring mosquito repellent—I've had guests eaten alive. The boat trip lasts about 40 minutes; you'll see crabs and birds.
Lunch: Stop at Yanfeng Town for a local lunch. Try Mud Crab Rice Noodles at a street stall. About 25 RMB a bowl. The owners speak only Hainanese, but just smile and point.
Afternoon (2:00-5:00): Drive to Guilin Yang Beach (30 minutes from Yanfeng). This is a less crowded beach with a long stretch of gray sand. There's a small fishing village nearby. Personal tip: Walk to the left end of the beach—there's a stretch of red volcanic rocks that create beautiful tide pools. Free entry.
Evening: Back to city for a Hainanese dinner at a Da Pai Dang. I like Xinglong Seafood Grill on Binhai Avenue. Order the steamed grouper and lotus root soup. Expect to pay 100-150 RMB per person. They accept Alipay and cash.
Day 5: Morning Stroll & Departure
Morning (8:00-10:30): If your flight is later, start at Wanly Park near the coast. It's a huge green space where locals fly kites and practice tai chi. Free. Walk along the waterfront for a last glimpse of the sea. I always tell my groups: buy some fresh coconuts from the street vendors near the park entrance for 8 RMB each—they'll cut the top for you.
Late Morning (11:00): Head to the airport. Allow 30 minutes by taxi (70-80 RMB) or 50 minutes by subway line 1 (if your luggage is light).
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