Yan Zhou
What's Inside
I have lost count of how many times I have walked the shores of West Lake. And every time, I see tourists making the same mistakes—getting stuck in the midday sun, paying too much for boat rides, or ending up at the wrong entrance. Let me save you the trouble.
Here is the truth: most online guides tell you to start at Broken Bridge and follow the crowd. That leads to a 3-hour shuffle behind hundreds of selfie sticks. But if you follow my steps, you will experience the lake like a local—without the hassle.
Let us get started.
Best Time to Visit West Lake
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer the most comfortable weather. But the secret is not the season—it is the hour. Aim for 6:30 AM to 8:30 AM. The light is soft, the air smells fresh, and you will have the pathways almost to yourself. By 10 AM, tour buses arrive, and it becomes a zoo.
I always tell my groups: if you can only choose one moment, come during a light drizzle in April. The mist over the lake is exactly like the ancient paintings. And bring an umbrella—there is a reason the Chinese call this 'misty rain.'
How to Get to West Lake
From Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport (HGH), take the Airport Bus to Hangzhou Railway Station (about 30 RMB). Then switch to metro Line 1 and get off at Longxiangqiao Station (Exit C). That drops you right at the northern edge of the lake. A taxi from the airport to the lake costs around 120-150 RMB (35-40 minutes).
If you are arriving by high-speed train, use Hangzhou East Railway Station. Take metro Line 1 to Fengqi Road, or simply grab a taxi for about 40 RMB. The ride takes 20 minutes without traffic. Avoid rush hour (8-9 AM, 5-7 PM) if you value your time.
Where to Enter: Gates & Routes
There are several entry points, but not all are equal. Here is a quick breakdown:
| Gate | Best For | Nearby Metro |
|---|---|---|
| North Gate (Broken Bridge) | Iconic photos (but crowded) | Fengqi Road (Line 1, 10 min walk) |
| West Gate (Quyuan Fenghe) | Lotus views & fewer tourists | No direct metro; bus 7 to Hongchunqiao |
| South Gate (Leifeng Pagoda) | Pagoda & sunset views | Ding'an Road (Line 1, 15 min walk) |
| Su Causeway South Entrance | Local walking path (my favorite) | Longxiangqiao (Line 1, then 20 min walk) |
My advice: enter via the West Gate. You skip 80% of the crowds and immediately hit the best lotus pond in summer. The walk to Leifeng Pagoda takes about 30 minutes along the causeway—far more pleasant than fighting through the north.
Must-See Attractions (With Insider Tips)
Leifeng Pagoda
Rebuilt in 2002, this five-story pagoda offers a panoramic view of the entire lake. Admission: 40 RMB (adults), 20 RMB (children 6-18). Go in the late afternoon (4 PM) to catch golden light and avoid the midday heat. The elevator inside? Yes, it exists—but the queue can be 20 minutes. I usually take the stairs; it is only 5 floors and much faster.
Three Pools Mirroring the Moon
This is the iconic scene on the 1 RMB note. You need a boat to get close. A private boat (80-120 RMB per hour) can take you around, but if you join a group boat (35 RMB per person), they will let you off at the small island for 20 minutes. Pro tip: bring a 1 RMB note and hold it up for a photo—your Chinese friends will be impressed.
Su Causeway
A 2.8 km causeway lined with willow trees and peach blossoms. Walking the entire length takes about 40 minutes. Rent a bike? You cannot ride on the causeway itself, but the road beside it (Beishan Road) is bike-friendly. Beware of electric bikes whizzing past—they are silent and fast. Stay on the pedestrian side.
Oriole Singing in the Willows
A lesser-known spot on the southeastern shore. Fewer tourists, lovely pavilions, and the best place for birdwatching early morning. Free entry. I often tell my guests to bring binoculars and a thermos of tea—this is where locals practice tai chi.
West Lake Ticket & Boat Pass Guide
West Lake itself is free. No ticket needed to walk around. However, attractions like Leifeng Pagoda, Yue Fei Temple, and the Lingyin Temple (nearby) charge separate fees. Scams to avoid: Some touts near the north gate will try to sell you a 'West Lake combo ticket' for 200 RMB. Do not fall for it. The only official combo is the 'West Lake Scenic Area Pass' (70 RMB) that covers Lingyin Temple and a few others—but only if you plan to visit those. For most people, paying as you go is cheaper.
Boat rides: You have three options.
- Self-paddle rowboat – 30-40 RMB per hour per boat. Fun but exhausting.
- Electric boat (private) – 150-200 RMB per hour. Quiet and fast.
- Tourist ferry (large) – 35-55 RMB per person. Covers the main spots but rigid schedule.
I recommend the self-paddle rowboat for couples or small groups—romantic and gives you freedom to stop anywhere. Bring cash! Many boat operators do not accept cards or international apps.
How to Spend One Day at West Lake (Sample Itinerary)
6:30 AM – Arrive at West Gate. Walk along Quyuan Fenghe (Lotus Park). Almost empty. Take photos of the lotus with morning dew.
7:30 AM – Stroll south along Su Causeway. Stop at Su Dongpo Memorial (free). Grab a steamed bun from a street vendor (2 RMB).
9:00 AM – Reach Leifeng Pagoda. If you want to go up, do it now before the queue forms. Spend about 1 hour.
10:30 AM – Walk to Oriole Singing in the Willows. Rest in the pavilion. Have a cup of Longjing tea (bring your own or buy from a local shop for 15 RMB).
12:00 PM – Lunch at Lou Wai Lou (No. 30 Gushan Road). Famous for Dongpo pork and West Lake vinegar fish. Be prepared to wait 20-30 minutes. One portion of Dongpo pork is about 98 RMB. I always order the beggar's chicken too—it is deboned and wrapped in lotus leaves, absolutely tender.
1:30 PM – Rent a self-paddle rowboat from the dock near the south gate (50 RMB deposit). Row toward the Three Pools. Spend about 1.5 hours on the water.
3:00 PM – Walk back along the eastern shore. Visit the Printing Museum (free, small but interesting). Alternatively, head to Hubin Road for a coffee break and people-watching.
5:00 PM – Find a spot on Broken Bridge for sunset. The best angle is from the north side facing the lake. It gets crowded, so arrive 15 minutes early.
7:00 PM – Dinner at Green Tea Restaurant (several branches; I prefer the one on Hubin Road). Try the grilled fish with pickled peppers. Reasonable prices (60-80 RMB per person).
8:30 PM – Night stroll along the lake. The lights on Leifeng Pagoda and the mountains are stunning. Grab a taxi back to your hotel.
Where to Stay Near West Lake
Choose accommodation based on your budget and style:
| Area | Hotel Example | Price Range (per night) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hubin Road (Lakeside) | Four Seasons Hangzhou at West Lake | 2500-4000 RMB | Luxury, direct lake view, English-speaking staff |
| Nanshan Road (South) | Hangzhou Marriott Hotel Nanshan | 800-1500 RMB | Near Leifeng Pagoda, good for families, pool |
| West Lake near Lingyin Temple | Hangzhou Lingyin Hotel | 500-900 RMB | Quiet, nature, but far from dining hubs |
| Youth Hostel (Budget) | Mingtown Hangzhou Youth Hostel | 80-150 RMB (dorm) | Social, shared bathroom, great rooftop view |
Personal pick: I always suggest my friends stay at Hangzhou Marriott Hotel Nanshan. It is a 10-minute walk to the lake, the hotel can help you book tickets without WeChat, and the breakfast buffet has both Western and Chinese options. Plus, the concierge speaks decent English—a lifesaver when you need to navigate.
Frequently Asked Questions about West Lake
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