Lei Li
I once had a group of Malaysian tourists nearly starve in Shanghai. We landed at 10 PM, and every restaurant they tried said “no halal.” Two of them almost cried. That night, I learned a hard lesson: finding halal food in China is not impossible, but you need a strategy. Ready to eat well? Here’s exactly what I do with every Muslim traveler I guide.
Why Halal in China Is Tricky
Most Chinese restaurants serve pork in some form—even if it’s just lard in the cooking oil. And the word “halal” (清真) isn’t always understood outside Muslim communities. But here’s the good news: China has a huge Muslim population, especially in the northwest. You just need to know where to look (and what to say).
The secret? Look for the green sign with Chinese characters 清真 (qīngzhēn). That’s the universal halal symbol. Restaurants with this sign are run by Hui Muslims, and they don’t serve pork or alcohol. I always tell my clients: “If you see a green storefront with Arabic script, you’re safe.”
Beijing: My Go-To Halal Spots
Beijing has a solid halal scene, mainly around the Niujie (Ox Street) Mosque area. Here are the places I take every group:
| Restaurant | Address (Chinese) | Must-Try Dish | Price Range (per person) | Payment |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yuebin Restaurant | Niujie Street, Xicheng District (西城区牛街) | Lamb skewers (羊肉串) – smoky, tender, not too spicy. | 60-100 RMB | Alipay, WeChat, cash. No international cards. |
| Hongbin Restaurant | Inside Niujie Mosque complex (牛街清真寺内) | Beef noodle soup (牛肉面) – clear broth, hand-pulled noodles. | 35-70 RMB | Cash or local payment apps. Cards not accepted. |
| Taifeng Tower | No. 2 Niujie, Xicheng District (西城区牛街2号) | Steamed lamb (手扒羊肉) – eat with garlic and vinegar. | 80-150 RMB | Alipay preferred. Bring cash as backup. |
Pro tip: Niujie is very busy on Fridays (prayer day). Go around 11 AM to avoid the crowd. And don’t use Google Maps to find these places—it’s often out of date. Use Apple Maps or ask your hotel to write the address in Chinese for your Uber driver (they use Didi, not Uber).
Shanghai: Where to Find Halal Food
Shanghai is trickier. The old Muslim quarter near the City God Temple has mostly disappeared. But I’ve found three reliable spots after years of trial and error:
1. Yunnan Road Halal Street (云南南路清真一条街)
Near the Yunnan Road Food Street, there’s a small cluster of halal eateries. Look for Lanzhou Beef Noodle (兰州拉面) shops—they’re always halal. My favorite is Ma-Li-Ji (马利吉) at No. 59 Yunnan Road. Their hand-pulled noodles with beef (15 RMB) are a lifesaver when you’re on a budget.
2. Songmao Restaurant (松茂餐厅)
Address: 588 Huaihai Road Middle (淮海中路588号). This is a sit-down halal restaurant with a proper menu in English and Chinese. I always order the braised lamb ribs (红烧羊排) – fall-off-the-bone tender. Price: 80-120 RMB per person. They accept WeChat Pay and cash. No credit cards.
3. Xinjiang BBQ Street (新疆烧烤街) near Changning Road
If you want street food, head to the stretch of Changning Road between Wuyi Road and Kaixuan Road. Around 6 PM, Uyghur vendors fire up their grills. The lamb skewers (5 RMB each) are incredible. But cash is king here—don’t expect any digital payment.
Xi’an: The Muslim Quarter
Xi’an is a dream for halal eaters. The Muslim Quarter (回民街) is a huge pedestrian area packed with 100% halal food. This is where I send every traveler who wants variety. The main street is touristy but still authentic.
Here’s my personal shortlist:
| Item | What it is | Where to get it | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lamb Pao Mo (羊肉泡馍) | Bread broken into lamb soup – a Xi’an classic. | Lao Sun Jia (老孙家), Beiyuanmen main street | 35 RMB |
| Yangrou Chuan (羊肉串) | Grilled lamb skewers with cumin and chili. | Any stall on the side alleys – I like the ones outside the Great Mosque. | 10 RMB for 3 |
| Hui Min Mirror Cake (回民镜糕) | Sweet rice cake with nuts – great for dessert. | Small carts near the Drum Tower entrance. | 5 RMB |
Navigation tip: The Muslim Quarter’s alleys are a maze. Apple Maps works reasonably well, but I prefer to use Baidu Maps (百度地图) with the address in Chinese. When you exit the subway at Zhonglou Station (Exit C), walk north and you’ll hit the main street.
Lanzhou: Halal Beef Noodle Heaven
If you love beef noodle soup, Lanzhou is your holy grail. The city is famous for its halal beef noodles (兰州牛肉面). Almost every shop here is halal because of the Hui majority. The best? Ma Zili Beef Noodle (马子禄牛肉面) at 118 Zhangye Road (张掖路118号). A bowl costs 15-25 RMB. They open at 6 AM and often sell out by noon. Pay with cash only.
Lanzhou is a bit off the typical tourist trail, but if you’re passing through on the train to Tibet or Xinjiang, definitely stop for a meal.
Guangzhou: Halal Cantonese?
Guangzhou has a surprising number of halal options thanks to its large Hui and Uyghur communities. The Xiaobei Road area (小北路) is known as “Little Xinjiang.” I take my groups to Adili Restaurant (阿迪力餐厅) at 158 Xiaobei Road (小北路158号). They serve authentic Uyghur pilaf (抓饭) – 40 RMB a plate – and it’s 100% halal. Another spot is Qingzhen Cantonese (清真粤菜) near the Grandview Mall, but you need to ask specifically if they use halal chicken (many don’t).
Payment, Phone & Navigation Hacks
Let me save you the headache I see every week:
- Payment: Do not rely on cash alone. Many small halal shops in Beijing and Xi’an prefer WeChat Pay or Alipay. Set those up before you arrive. International credit cards are useless in 90% of places. If you can’t get Alipay, ask your hotel’s concierge to help you load cash onto an Alipay card – some hotels offer this service.
- Phone: Buy a local SIM card at the airport (China Unicom or China Mobile) or get an eSIM with VPN included. You need VPN to access Google, Facebook, WhatsApp, etc. Many halal restaurant listings are on Dianping (大众点评) which is blocked on overseas app stores – download it once you’re in China.
- Navigation: Google Maps is wildly inaccurate in China. Use Apple Maps for English-friendly directions. To get a taxi or Didi, have your hotel write the destination in Chinese. For example, show the driver “西城区牛街清真寺” to reach the Niujie Mosque area.
- Translation: Download Baidu Translate (百度翻译) or Apple’s built-in translator. Show the Chinese phrase “请提供清真食品” (please provide halal food) if you’re at a non-halal restaurant. Also learn “我不吃猪肉” (I don’t eat pork).
3 Mistakes I See Tourists Make
Mistake 1: Assuming “no pork menu” means halal. I had a couple in Shanghai who ate at a restaurant claiming no pork – they later found out the chef used lard for stir-frying. Always look for the green 清真 sign, or stick to dedicated halal restaurants like Lanzhou beef noodle chains.
Mistake 2: Not booking ahead for popular restaurants. In Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter, Lao Sun Jia often has a 30-minute wait at peak dinner time (7-8 PM). You can’t book online easily, so I recommend going at 5 PM to beat the rush. Ask your hotel to call and reserve.
Mistake 3: Thinking halal food is only available in Muslim areas. Actually, many Hui-run restaurants are scattered in residential neighborhoods. In Beijing, check out the Haidian District (海淀区) near universities – there are hidden halal joints used by students. Search “清真” on Apple Maps and you’ll be surprised.
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