Chen Liu
⚡ What You'll Find Below
I've been leading small groups around Haikou for four years, and I still remember my own first trip here – I showed up with zero plan, ended up at a tourist-trap seafood place, and missed the best parts entirely. Now I've walked every corner of this city dozens of times. Here's exactly how I'd spend 3 days in Haikou if I were doing it again, with all the tiny details that make or break a trip.
Day 1: Volcanic Crater + Qilou Old Street (Don't Skip the Morning)
Morning: Haikou Volcanic Cluster Geopark
Start early – I mean, leave your hotel by 8:30. The park opens at 8:00 (actually 7:30 in summer, but that's too early for most people). Grab a taxi or Didi from city center – it's about 25–35 minutes depending on traffic, should cost around 30–40 RMB. If you're on the bus, take route 1 or 2 from Hongcheng Square to the last stop, then walk 10 minutes. You'll see the giant volcanic cone entrance.
Ticket prices (as of last month): 60 RMB for adults, 30 RMB for students, kids under 1.2m free. They accept WeChat, Alipay, and sometimes cash. No need to book online for weekdays, but on weekends and holidays, do the WeChat mini-program – search "雷琼世界地质公园" and reserve in advance (just in case).
Inside, you'll walk up a gentle slope to the crater rim. The real magic? Get there before 10:00 – the light hits the tropical forest like a painting, and you'll have the place almost to yourself. I've seen tourists arrive at 2 PM and complain about the heat – yeah, because the crater traps humidity. Wear a hat and bring water (there's a small shop but it's 50% markup).
Pro tip: There's a short path down into the crater, but it's just dirt and rocks – not worth it unless you want a leg workout. Instead, walk the flat loop around the rim; it takes 40 minutes including photo stops.
Lunch: Simple Noodles at the Park Gate
Right outside the exit, there are a few local noodle stalls. I always go to the one with the yellow sign – it's run by an auntie who's been there for 15 years. Get the Hainan rice noodles – 10 RMB a bowl, with shredded pork and pickled vegetables. Spicy? She has a jar of homemade chili, but it's hot – I learned the hard way.
Afternoon: Qilou Old Street + Snack Walk
Take a Didi back to the city (about 40 RMB, 30 mins). Go straight to Qilou Old Street, specifically the area around Zhongshan Road and Bo'ai Road. This isn't a single street – it's a whole district of arcade buildings from the 1920s. The best photos are at the intersection where brick facades meet palm trees.
Don't just walk the main street. Dive into the small alleys: Deshengsha Road for old hardware shops, and Ju Yuan Fang for a snack called lao mian (a kind of pastry). You'll see a queue at a tiny shop called Wu Niang Ciba – their sticky rice cakes with peanut filling are a must. 3 RMB each.
If you're into history, the Haikou Old Street Museum (free entry) inside the arcade shows old photos of the waterfront. It takes 20 minutes.
Dinner: Seafood near the Port
For a proper Haikou dinner, don't go to the fancy restaurants on the main road. Instead, walk 10 minutes north of Qilou to Haikou New Port Seafood Market. You pick live seafood, they cook it. Prices vary – a lobster might be 150–200 RMB, clams 20 RMB per kilo. I usually let a local pick for me; just point at what you want and say "zhe ge" (this one). Cooking fee is 10 RMB per dish. Timing: go around 17:00 to avoid the rush.
Day 2: Beaches, Bikes & Tropical Fruit
Morning: Holiday Beach + Bike Ride
Holiday Beach is the classic Haikou beach, but please don't go at noon. I've seen too many sunburned tourists. Go around 8:00–10:00 or after 16:00. The beach is free, and there are shower facilities (5 RMB, bring coins). Take bus 28 or 37 from city center – 40 minutes. Or Didi, about 25 RMB.
Rent a bike along the coast – there are blue shared bikes (Alipay scan, 1 RMB per 30 minutes). Ride east toward Xixiu Beach – it's a 6 km coastal path, totally flat, with ocean views. I always stop at the little café near the 3 km mark – it's run by a retired couple, they make fresh coconut water (10 RMB). On a clear day you can see ships on the horizon.
Lunch: Coconut Chicken
Back to the city for a classic Hainan dish. My favorite spot is Jia Ji Coconut Chicken near Guoxing Avenue. It's a small chain, but the broth is sweet and the chicken is tender. Usually 80–120 RMB per person. They have an English menu – well, a menu with pictures. The trick is to order some yamai (sticky rice rolls) to dip in the soup. Opens 11:00–22:00.
Afternoon: Evergreen Park + Afternoon Tea
Walk off lunch at Evergreen Park – a huge green space by the sea, perfect for lying under a banyan tree. Free entry. Then experience laobai cha – old men's tea. Head to Jin Yu tea house on Longkun South Road. It looks chaotic but the tea is 10 RMB, bottomless, and comes with a tray of snacks (peanuts, buns, dumplings). Pick what you like – each small plate is 5–8 RMB. Nobody speaks English, just point. I always get the custard bun.
At 17:00, the sun gets lower – walk to the Haikou Clock Tower on the river near Qilou. The light hitting the old building is perfect for photos.
Dinner: Noodle Alley
For a real local experience, hit Ziyou Road near Jiefang West. There's a lane filled with tang mian (soup noodles) stalls from 18:00 onward. My go-to is the third stall on the left – they do a pork rib soup noodle for 12 RMB. The broth has been simmering for hours. Late night, this same lane turns into a barbecue alley – grilled oysters with garlic, 30 RMB for a dozen.
Day 3: Culture & Last-Minute Souvenirs
Morning: Five Ancestors Temple + Hainan Museum
Start at Five Ancestors Temple, the oldest building in Haikou (built in 1583). Tickets are 20 RMB (students half price). It's a small but serene complex with statues of five Tang and Song dynasty officials exiled to Hainan. The gardens have ancient banyan trees – the one near the back gate is said to be 300 years old. Allow 45 minutes.
Then cross the river to the Hainan Provincial Museum – it's free, but bring your passport to get a ticket at the counter. They have excellent exhibits on the Li and Miao minority cultures, plus the maritime silk road. I recommend the third floor – there's a replica of an old fishing boat that kids (and adults) climb on. Opens 09:00–17:00, closed Mondays.
Lunch nearby: Hainan University South Gate Food Street opens around 11:00. It's a massive night market but also has daytime vendors. Try the qingbuliang – a cold coconut dessert soup with beans and fruit. My favorite is the one from a stall called Laobaixing – 8 RMB a bowl.
Afternoon: Shopping & Departure
Before you leave, pick up souvenirs at Dongmen Market near Qilou. It's a covered market with dried seafood, betel nuts (don't buy – they'll stain your teeth), and local snacks. For something more curated, the Hainan Specialties Store on Haifu Road has packaged coconut candies and coffee. If you're flying out, check out the duty-free options at Haikou Meilan Airport – they have a decent selection of Hainan products.
Where to Stay (Real Talk)
Here's the lowdown based on where I've put my groups and what they've complained about.
| Area | Best For | Price Range (per night) | Caveat |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guoxing Avenue | Business + convenience | 300–600 RMB | Good English at most hotels; close to dining |
| Near Qilou / Old City | History lovers, budget | 150–350 RMB | Rooms can be small, street noise until 23:00 |
| Haidian Island | Quiet, riverside views | 400–800 RMB | Need taxi to attractions, limited nightlife |
| West Coast (near Holiday Beach) | Beach bums | 500+ (resorts) | Far from city center; mostly chains |
WiFi stability: Most mid-range hotels are fine, but a few budget hostels near the train station have terrible connections. I once had to hotspot for a guest. Always check recent Google Maps reviews mentioning "WiFi" – that's your honest source.
What to Eat: The Shortlist
I'm not going to list 30 dishes. Here are the five you absolutely can't miss, with where to find them.
- Hainan Rice Noodles – Breakfast staple. Find it at Yanjiang Rice Noodle on Bo'ai Road. 8–10 RMB.
- Wenchang Chicken – The famous white-cut chicken. Go to Longjing Chicken Rice near the East Lake. Half chicken 50 RMB.
- Seafood Porridge – Best at the Xin Hai Wei on Binjiang Road. 30–40 RMB for a huge bowl.
- Betel Nut – I'd say skip it. It's an acquired taste and it'll stain your lips red. But if you're curious, street vendors sell it for 5 RMB a packet.
- Mango Sour Soup – Not a meal, but a snack. Green mango slices dipped in chili salt. Sold on the street near Qilou, 3 RMB a bag.
Your Questions, Answered (From Real Travelers I've Met)
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