How to Travel to Dali: Insider Route & Money-Saving Tips

Let me be honest — the first time I guided a group to Dali, I lost one client at the South Gate for an hour. He was stuck at the ticket booth, confused by the Chinese-only payment screen. That's when I realized: most 'how to travel to Dali' guides on the internet are written for people who already have a Chinese bank card and a buddy who speaks Mandarin.

You're not that traveler. You're probably juggling an international Visa, a loaded but sometimes glitchy Alipay, and a phone that tries to redirect you to a map that doesn't work here. The good news? Dali is still very doable for a foreigner — if you know a few local shortcuts.

Here's the short answer: fly into Dali Airport from select cities, or take the high-speed train from Kunming (2h10m, book via Trip.com or 12306). Once in the ancient city, everything you need is walkable, but you'll need a scooter or Didi for the lake-side villages. And whatever you do — don't buy your Cangshan cable car ticket at the main station in the afternoon. The queue will eat two hours of your day. Now, let me walk you through every step below.

How to Get to Dali from Kunming or Other Cities?

Dali has its own airport, but the high-speed train from Kunming is the sweet spot for most travelers. The train takes just over 2 hours and costs around 145 RMB for a second-class seat. You can book it via Trip.com or the official 12306 site — both have English versions. Just make sure you have your passport number ready.

If you're flying, Dali Airport receives direct flights from major cities like Shanghai, Chengdu, and Beijing. But here's the catch: weather in the Cangshan mountains often delays flights. I've been stuck twice — and the stress isn't worth it when the train is so reliable.

Airport vs. Train: Which One Should You Pick?

Let me save you the research:

Once you arrive at Dali Railway Station, avoid the touts yelling 'taxi' — they'll charge double. Instead, walk straight to the taxi queue outside the main exit and insist on the meter. A ride to the ancient city should cost 80–100 RMB and take about 40 minutes. If you're on a budget, take bus line 8 to the ancient city's north gate for just a few yuan, but you'll need to walk about 10 minutes from the stop.

What's the Best Way to Get Around Dali Once You're Here?

Your two best friends are Didi (China's Uber) and an e-bike rental. The ancient city itself is compact and walkable — you can cross it in 20 minutes. But to explore Erhai Lake's villages or reach the base of Cangshan, you'll need wheels.

Renting an E-Bike or Scooter

Almost every guesthouse has an e-bike for rent, usually for 40–60 RMB per day. Make sure you check the battery level before heading out — I've seen travelers stranded halfway to Xizhou. Also, only ride on dedicated lanes; police do check for international licenses, though rarely. If you're not confident, take a Didi instead.

Using Didi (Chinese Uber)

Set up Didi in English from the App Store. It works with international Alipay. A ride within the ancient city is 10–20 RMB; to the pier or Three Pagodas, it's about 15–25 RMB. Tip: enter the Chinese address or show the driver this: '大理古城南门' (South Gate). Saves you a lot of charades.

Top Sights in Dali: A Local's Hit List (Avoid the Tourist Traps)

Dali is more than the ancient city — it's about Cangshan, Erhai, and the surrounding Bai villages. But not every spot is worth your time. Here's my honest ranking:

1. Cangshan Mountain

Take the cable car up — but not the main one at noon. Seriously, you'll wait 1.5 hours. Instead, go early (8:30 am) or after 3 pm. The Zhonghe Cable Car is less crowded and gives you a local-village feel. Ticket is around 120 RMB for the round-trip cable car plus access. Check the weather first; if clouds are low, skip it.

2. Erhai Lake Cycling Loop

The classic route is from Caicun to Xizhou and back, about 30 km. Rent a bike or e-bike and stop at the spots where the locals take sunset photos. Don't fall for the 'boat cruise' sellers — the lake is beautiful from the shore, and the boat is often cloudy.

3. The Three Pagodas & Chongsheng Temple

Iconic for a reason. Entrance is around 75 RMB. Go early to beat tour groups. The reflection pond gives you the postcard shot. Bring a wide-angle lens.

4. Xizhou Old Town

About 30 minutes north of Dali, Xizhou is my favorite Bai architecture village. The morning market is a feast for the senses. If you only have one day trip, do this.

5. Shuanglang and the 'Pearl of the Plateau'

This lakeside town gets crowded, but it's still lovely. Skip the paid observation deck — walk past the local stalls and you'll find free viewpoints.

How to Structure a Dali Itinerary: 3-Day, 5-Day Options

For most visitors, 3 days in Dali is the sweet spot. Here's exactly how I'd plan it, with timing and meals factored in.

3-Day Essential Dali

Day 1: Arrive, settle in, and explore the ancient city. Check into your guesthouse inside the walled town. Have lunch at 复兴小院 (Fu Xing Xiao Yuan) — try their sour fish soup (酸辣鱼). In the late afternoon, climb the South Gate tower for sunset shots. Dinner at 人民路 stalls.

Day 2: Cangshan morning, Three Pagodas afternoon. Take the early cable car, have lunch at a Bai village near Ganlu Temple, then walk to the Three Pagodas. Wear good shoes — you'll be walking downhill for about 40 minutes.

Day 3: Cycle the shore or take a day trip to Xizhou. If you rent an e-bike, pace yourself. Stop at Caicun and Hai She Bay (海舌公园). Return by 5 pm to catch your train or flight.

5-Day Extended Version

Add a day in Shuanglang and a day trip to the nearby Zhonghe villages. Also consider a cooking class with a Bai family in Xizhou.

Where to Stay in Dali: Ancient City vs. Erhai Lake

For first-timers, I always recommend the ancient city. It's not the quietest, but you're close to restaurants, rental shops, and any tour pickup. Erhai Lake accommodation is more scenic and peaceful, but you'll rely on taxis or bikes to get anywhere.

Most traditional courtyard guesthouses do not have an elevator — pack light. Front desk English is spotty, so have your booking confirmation saved offline. The plus side: free Wi-Fi is usually stable. If you need 24/7 convenience, stay near the South Gate, where there's a 24-hour family mart and many supermarkets.

How to Handle Payments, Booking, and VPN in Dali

The biggest culture shock isn't the scenery — it's paying for things. Almost every shop, restaurant, and street vendor prefers mobile payment. International Visa and Mastercard rarely work in local tourism spots. So set up Alipay trial or WeChat Pay before you arrive, and link your international card. Carry some cash (300–500 RMB) for emergencies, but don't expect change from taxi drivers if you hand over a 100.

For navigation, forget Google Maps — it's inaccurate and often points you to closed businesses. Instead, use Apple Maps if you're on iPhone (it's decent) or install AMap Global (the English version of 高德地图). Download offline maps before heading out, as data can be patchy around the lake.

Booking attractions: Most need a passport for registration. The easiest way is to buy tickets on Trip.com or ask your hotel to book for you. The WeChat mini-program route is a nightmare for non-Chinese speakers — even I struggle with it.

Pro Tip: Print out your hotel confirmation in Chinese and keep it with your passport. It speeds up every check-in and taxi ride.

VPN is essential. Download and test it before you arrive, because once you're on Chinese soil, you can't access most international sites. I recommend Astrill or ExpressVPN, but get one that's been tested recently.

Verified and fact-checked by the editorial team.