Dali

If you love mountains, Dali is paradise. I hiked part of Cangshan from the Zhonghe cable car to the Jade Belt Road and the views over Erhai Lake are simply insane. The air is so clean and fresh, and the pine forests are silent except for birdsong. The Three Pagodas are stunning too, especially with the reflection pond in front. I also rented an e-bike and cruised around the lake to the pier at Shuanglang—every turn was a postcard. Dali is more than just the old town; it's the natural setting that makes it special. Easily one of my favorite places in China.

I came to Dali for a weekend and ended up staying a week. The pace of life is just perfect—morning yoga on the guesthouse rooftop overlooking the rooftops, afternoon coffee at a little place near the south gate, sunset by the lake with the mountains turning pink. The local Bai food is fantastic; I had papaya fish and never found it anywhere else. Everyone says it's touristy, and yes, the main street can feel like every other Chinese old town, but if you wander a few lanes deeper you'll find quiet courtyards, old ladies selling pickled mangoes, and real life happening. Dali has a healing energy. I'll definitely be back.

Dali blew me away. I rented a bicycle and followed the lake path from Caicun to Xizhou and it was the best ride of my life—snow-capped Cangshan on one side, blue Erhai on the other, and hardly anyone around once you get past the first few kilometers. The Bai villages are so charming, with old courtyard houses and tie-dye workshops. In the old town, I loved just wandering the quiet back streets in the morning before the crowds arrived. The night market was fun too. Dali isn't just a pretty stop—it's a whole vibe. I extended two extra nights and still didn't want to leave.

I really enjoyed my three days in Dali, just didn't love it as much as I hoped. The mountain backdrop is stunning, and cycling along Erhai Lake on a sunny morning was magical. The old town is lively but VERY touristy, and I got tired of the constant 'come see my shop' chants. Some great cafés with excellent local coffee—try the one with the courtyard and the husky. Food was decent; the mushroom hotpot was a standout. Just wish there were fewer tour groups and more authentic local experiences. Still worth a visit.

Dali has its moments, but I left a bit underwhelmed. The old town is basically one long stretch of identical souvenir shops and 'photography studios' where tourists rent costumes. Cangshan was beautiful but the cable car queues were insane—two hours even on a weekday. Erhai Lake is pretty from a distance, but the shoreline near the town is built up and hard to access. My guesthouse was fine, but the constant honking of e-bikes in the alleyways got old fast. If you come, go early, avoid weekends, and don't expect the slow, peaceful vibe people talk about.

I wanted to like Dali more than I did. Maybe I hit a bad stretch of weather—the rain turned the streets into muddy patches, and the haze over Erhai Lake hid the mountains completely. A lot of the old town is either cute coffee shops or the same tie-dye and silver sellers, so it started to feel repetitive. My guesthouse was comfortable, but the music from the bar downstairs kept me up until midnight. I did enjoy a quiet afternoon with a book at a lakeside teahouse, and the Bai architecture is definitely pretty. It just didn’t match the dreamy pictures everyone posts. Maybe I’ll try Yunnan again on a sunny day elsewhere.