Dali Backpacking Guide: Trails, Hostels & Money-Saving Hacks

Your bank card will scream at you. Your map app will show a road that doesn't exist. And that 'must-visit' viewpoint with the white chairs? It's a paid prop. I've been taking backpackers around Dali for years, and I've seen the same panicked look again and again. So here's the honest, no-fluff Dali backpacking guide I wish someone had given me before my first trip.

What You Must Prepare Before Arriving in Dali

Secure a visa in advance. Most nationalities need a standard tourist visa (L). Apply at a Chinese embassy or visa center. Since 2023, China has eased visa rules for some countries, but double-check with your local consulate. Don't assume you can get one on arrival — you can't.

Set up mobile payments. Dali is almost cashless. Even street food vendors prefer scanning a QR code. Link your foreign Visa or Mastercard to Alipay or WeChat Pay. Alipay's TourPass feature lets you use cards without a Chinese bank account. I always test it with a small purchase before leaving the airport. Cash is seldom accepted, and ATMs often fail for overseas cards.

Download a VPN. Google, Facebook, Instagram, and even some email services are blocked in China. Install a reliable VPN (like Astrill or ExpressVPN) before you arrive, because app stores also get blocked. Also, get a translation app — Baidu Translate works better than Google Translate for Chinese, especially for photos.

Navigation. Google Maps is a nightmare in Dali — it shows inaccurate data. Use AMaps Global (the international version of Gaode) or Apple Maps. I've seen tourists end up on a dirt road trying to find the old town. Save the offline map in advance, too.

Pro Tip: Your passport is your best friend here. You need it to book train tickets, buy attraction passes, and check into any hotel. Keep a scanned copy in your cloud, but bring the physical one everywhere.

When's the Best Time to Backpack Dali?

March-April and September-November are gold. The weather is mild — 15-25°C — and the crowds are thinner. Spring brings blooming flowers; autumn has crisp blue skies. Summer (June-August) is monsoon season — expect sudden daily downpours. Winter (December-February) is chilly at night, often dropping to near freezing, but sunny days make it bearable.

Avoid Chinese national holidays. May 1-5 and October 1-8 turn Dali into a human river. Hotel prices double, and you'll spend hours queuing for cable cars. If all you have are those dates, book everything a month ahead and prepare for chaos.

I once made the mistake of visiting during Labor Day. The South Gate was so packed that I turned around and spent the day cycling the lake instead. That was actually the best call — the lake never gets as crowded as the old town.

How to Get to Dali: Budget Routes

By train (recommended). High-speed trains from Kunming take about 2 hours. Second class costs around 145 RMB. From Dali Railway Station, take Bus 8 (3 RMB) direct to the Old Town South Gate. Taxi from the station will set you back 30-40 RMB, but you'll need to show the address in Chinese to your driver. Save it on your phone.

By plane. Dali Airport has flights from Chengdu, Chongqing, and Shanghai. The airport shuttle (25 RMB) drops you at the South Gate. Taxi costs 80-100 RMB — make sure to negotiate or use DiDi.

By bus. If you're coming from Lijiang, a bus takes 2-3 hours for about 30 RMB. From Kunming, long-distance buses are slower than the train — skip unless you're on a very tight budget and can handle 5+ hours on a winding road.

Insider Advice: Always book train tickets on Trip.com or the official 12306 app — they require your passport number. Ticket counters at stations rarely accept foreign cards.

Where to Stay in Dali? Hostels vs Budget Hotels

Stay inside the old town. Most backpacker hostels are clustered around Renmin Road and the South Gate. For a social vibe, pick a hostel with a bar or common room. For quiet, try the north side near the North Gate — it's less touristy but still within the walls. Here's a quick comparison to help you choose.

Insider Advice: The old town is car-free. Lugging your backpack over cobblestones is a pain. Book a hostel that is a short walk from the South Gate, where buses drop you off. Also, ask if they have a 行李寄存 (luggage storage) — most hostels offer it for free even before check-in.

What to Do in Dali Without Breaking the Bank?

Explore the Old Town for Free

The entire old town is walkable. Get lost in the white Bai-style courtyards. Climb the South Gate tower (free) for a sunset view. I always tell my clients to skip the main square at noon — it's packed with tour groups. Instead, wander the side streets; that's where you'll find the real daily life — grandmothers drying chili peppers, kids running after each other.

Hike Cangshan Mountain

Take the Gantong Cable Car. It's the longest in Asia and costs about 200 RMB round trip, including the mountain gate fee. Go early — the first cable car runs at 8:30 AM and the queue is short. By 10 AM, tour buses arrive. Or, if you're fit, hike the 17km Jade Cloud Road — it's free but requires a full day and proper gear. I once did it without enough water and nearly collapsed — don't repeat my mistake.

Cycle the West Shore of Erhai Lake

Rent a bike for 30 RMB/day. Start from Dali and head north to Xizhou. It's a flat 20km ride through villages and rapeseed fields. Avoid the '网红' photo spots that charge 10 RMB for a fake boat — the real beauty is free. The most stunning views are just between the villages, with the lake on one side and green fields on the other.

Day-trip to Xizhou

This Bai village has a famous morning market and ancient houses. Try the local cheese — it's grilled to a crispy texture. Buses from Dali cost 10 RMB, or it's a 1-hour bike ride. I always recommend spending the whole morning there — the market peaks around 8-10 AM, and the afternoon is better for wandering the quiet alleys.

How to Get Around Dali

Public buses are cheap. Bus 8 connects the train station and old town. Bus to Xizhou leaves from the main bus station — look for the sign with Chinese characters. But for Erhai Lake, cycling is the best. You can rent bikes in any hostel.

Electric scooters are fun but risky. Rentals cost 50-100 RMB/day. Police sometimes impound scooters without international permits. I've had clients fined 200 RMB. Use bikes or real taxis instead.

DidI is your ride. It's the Chinese Uber. Pay with Alipay. A short ride costs 10-15 RMB. Don't hail regular taxis — they'll overcharge foreigners. Always check that the driver has started the meter or use DiDi's fixed price.

Where to Find Cheap Eats in Dali?

Head to the night market on Renmin Road. You'll find skewers for 3-5 RMB, grilled mushrooms, and the famous Bai-style 'baba' (buttery flatbread). A full meal costs under 30 RMB. The market gets busy at 7 PM, so go slightly earlier to avoid queues.

For sit-down Bai cuisine, look for restaurants on Bole Road. Try the sour and spicy fish, and the local bacon. I always order 'tuhuo' — a spicy pork dish. Check the menu for prices — some places try to hide them. Ask to see the price list before ordering. Payment is usually via WeChat or Alipay; cash is almost never accepted.

A 3-Day Dali Backpacking Itinerary That Actually Works

Day 1: Arrive and Acclimate. Check into your hostel, then wander the old town. Catch sunset from the South Gate. Eat street food for dinner. This is the 'get your bearings' day — don't try to rush.

Day 2: Cangshan and Erhai. Take the first cable car up Cangshan. Come down by 11 AM, rent a bike, and cycle to Xizhou. Have lunch there, then cycle back or take a bus if you're tired. This gives you a solid day of mountain and lake views.

Day 3: Erhai East Shore. Take a local bus to Shuanglang town (1 hour, 15 RMB). Stroll the old streets, then hire a boat (40 RMB) for a view from the lake. If you're pressed for time, skip the boat and walk to the nearby village of Huangwo. Return by bus in the evening.

Pro Tip: If you have only 24 hours in Dali, skip Xizhou and Shuanglang — stick to the old town and a short bike ride along the west shore. You'll still feel the magic without the hurry.

FAQ: Backpacking Dali

Verified and fact-checked by the editorial team.