Lijiang

Lijiang stole my heart. I arrived not expecting much beyond a touristy old town, but the hiking around the area is unreal. One morning I got up before dawn and walked out toward the fields near the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and I just stood there watching the peaks turn pink. The air was so clean and cold. Back in town, I had a bowl of rice noodle soup at a tiny hole-in-the-wall place and it was the most comforting breakfast ever. This place has a soul if you take the time to look for it.

This was my second trip to Lijiang and this time I went in March, right after the Spring Festival crowds left. What a difference. The old town was peaceful, the weather was perfect, and I finally got to enjoy the slower side of the city. I stayed in a courtyard guesthouse run by a lovely Naxi family, drank tea in the morning sun, and spent hours walking the quieter alleys. The views of the snow mountain from the edge of town are unbeatable. Highly recommend staying overnight—it completely changes the experience.

I completely fell in love with Lijiang. The old town feels like a maze of cobblestones, flowers, and gentle water running along every lane. I sat at a little café near the Black Dragon Pool while the sun was setting, listening to a Naxi band play somewhere in the distance. The air smelled of woodsmoke and grilled snacks. People were friendly, the food was delicious, and the vibe was so relaxed. I’ve already started planning when I can come back.

Four stars because Lijiang itself was a bit too commercialized for my taste. The old town is nice for a wander but the constant touts got old quickly. However, the surrounding area was incredible—we did a day trip to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and it was worth every penny. The air was crisp, the views were massive, and I got some great photos. If you’re into nature, base yourself in Lijiang but plan to get out of the town every day.

Lijiang is pretty, there’s no denying that, but I wasn’t blown away the way I expected to be. The old town is absolutely packed in the afternoon—you’re basically shuffling along with the crowd, and every other shop is selling the same dried beef, silver jewelry, or scarves. The canals and bridges are lovely early in the morning, but by 10 a.m. it’s chaos. We stopped for a coffee and paid tourist prices for something average. I’m glad I came, but I wouldn’t rush back.

I wasn’t expecting much because everyone warned me about the crowds, but Lijiang completely charmed me. I loved the little canals running along every street, the kitschy but fun bars with live singing at night, and sipping hot milk tea on a second-floor balcony while watching the rain patter on the roof tiles. Even the touristy bits felt lively and safe. I booked an extra two nights just to soak in the vibe.