Hua Sun
What's Inside
Imagine wandering along a narrow lane lined with Ming and Qing dynasty buildings, the aroma of frying sesame cakes and osmanthus wine drifting out from wooden storefronts. That's Tunxi Ancient Street for you – a 1.27-kilometer living museum in the heart of Huangshan city. I've brought dozens of groups here over the years, and I still find new details every time. Let me show you how to make the most of your visit, without falling into the usual tourist traps.
Why Visit Tunxi Ancient Street?
Most travelers rush to Huangshan (the mountain) and skip this gem. Big mistake. Tunxi Ancient Street (also called Tunxi Old Street) is one of the best-preserved commercial streets from the Ming and Qing dynasties in China. It's not a museum you walk through quietly – it's a bustling, living market where locals shop for tea, snacks, and crafts. The architecture alone is worth the trip: whitewashed walls, upturned eaves, and intricately carved wooden doors.
What I love most is the contrast. One moment you're sipping a craft coffee in a restored mansion; the next, you're watching an old man chisel a bamboo scroll by hand. It's chaotic, authentic, and surprisingly untouristy compared to other ancient streets in China.
Best Time to Visit
Afternoon golden hours (4:00 PM – 6:00 PM) are my top pick. The sunlight slants through the eaves, creating beautiful shadows on the cobblestones. Plus, most day-trippers from Huangshan mountain have left by then, so the street feels less crowded. If you're a photographer, aim for a weekday and arrive before 9 AM to capture the empty alley.
Tunxi is open all day (the street itself has no gates), but individual shops and museums usually run from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM. The street is especially lively in the evenings when locals come out for a stroll after dinner.
How to Get There
Tunxi Ancient Street sits in the city center of Huangshan (formerly Tunxi district). Here are the most practical ways to reach it:
| Starting Point | Transport Mode | Duration | Cost (approx) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Huangshan Tunxi International Airport | Taxi / Didi (ride-hailing) | 20-30 min | 30-50 CNY | No direct bus; taxi is easiest |
| Huangshan North Railway Station (high-speed rail) | Bus route 21 or taxi | Bus 50 min / Taxi 30 min | Bus 2 CNY / Taxi 60-80 CNY | Bus 21 stops at "Tunxi Old Street" stop, then 5 min walk |
| Huangshan (mountain) scenic area | Bus to city center + taxi | 1.5-2 hours total | ~40 CNY bus + 15 CNY taxi | Take the scenic area bus to Huangshan Transfer Center, then city bus |
My tip: If you're coming from the high-speed rail station, take the bus – it's cheap and drops you right at the northern entrance of the street. The taxi stand at the station often has long queues.
Entrance & Tickets
Good news: entering the street itself is completely free. You can walk the entire length without spending a yuan on admission. However, a few heritage buildings inside charge a small fee (usually 10-30 CNY):
- Wan Cui Lou – a private museum of ancient architecture and artifacts. Worth it if you like detailed woodwork.
- Cheng Family's Residence – a Ming-dynasty home with original carvings.
- Tunxi Museum – free but requires ID registration.
No advance booking needed for the street itself. For the museums, just buy tickets on the spot (cash or WeChat/Alipay). No international credit cards accepted at the small ticket booths, so bring some cash.
What to See & Do
The main street runs east-west, with several side alleys branching off. Here's my self-guided route:
1. Walk the Main Axis
Start from the eastern entrance (near the Huashan Hotel). The first 500 meters are the most vibrant – tea houses, calligraphy shops, and snack stalls. Don't miss the Old Street Pharmacy, a traditional Chinese medicine shop that's been running since 1862. The owner is usually happy to show you the giant porcelain jars.
2. Explore the Side Alleys
Turn right at the intersection halfway down. You'll find Yongxiang Lane – a narrow passage with fewer tourists and workshops making inksticks and bamboo combs. I once watched an old craftsman carve a tiny bamboo cricket cage for 30 minutes. He didn't mind an audience.
3. Climb the Little Hill
At the western end, you'll see a small raised platform – Zhenhai Bridge viewpoint. It's a great spot for a panoramic shot of the street with the surrounding hills. I recommend going up around 5 PM.
Where to Eat
Huangshan cuisine is known for its cured ham (Jinhua style), bamboo shoots, and the infamous stinky tofu. Here are my go-to spots on the street:
| Restaurant | Specialty | Price Range (per person) | Address | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lao Jie Di Yi Lou | Stir-fried bamboo shoots, braised pork belly | 60-90 CNY | No. 247 Tunxi Old Street | Popular with tourists; arrive before 11:30 or wait |
| Da Hao Huo Shao | Sesame cake with green bean paste | 3 CNY per piece | Near the east entrance, yellow sign | Best snack option; get it fresh from the oven |
| Xiao Niang Zi Stinky Tofu | Deep-fried stinky tofu with chili sauce | 8 CNY | Alley near the pharmacy | Not for everyone – intense smell but tasty |
My must-order dish: The stir-fried bamboo shoots at Lao Jie Di Yi Lou. They're harvested from the nearby mountains and have a crisp, sweet flavor you can't get elsewhere. Also, grab a cup of keemun black tea (qimen hongcha) from a loose-leaf tea shop – the street is famous for it.
Payment: Most shops accept WeChat Pay and Alipay, but paper money is still king at small stalls. International credit cards are rarely accepted. I always carry 200 CNY in small bills.
Where to Stay
You don't need to stay right on the street – it can be noisy at night. Here are three solid options within walking distance:
| Hotel | Features | Price Range (per night) | Distance to Street |
|---|---|---|---|
| Huangshan International Hotel | Western-style, reliable Wi-Fi, elevator, English-speaking front desk | 350-600 CNY | 5 min walk |
| Tunxi Houhai Youth Hostel | Dorm and private rooms, rooftop terrace, luggage storage | 50-150 CNY | 8 min walk (in a quiet lane) |
| Lao Jie Shi Yi Hao Boutique Hotel | Renovated Qing-era mansion, beautiful courtyard, no elevator | 400-800 CNY | Right on the street (central section) |
If you're a budget traveler, the hostel is my top recommendation. The staff can arrange bus tickets to Huangshan mountain and give honest advice. For a splurge, the boutique hotel offers a magical atmosphere – but skip it if you have heavy luggage (stairs only).
Tips from a Guide
- Beware of tea scams: Some shops will invite you for a "free tasting" and then pressure you to buy overpriced leaves. Stick to the ones with clear price tags, or buy from the government-run tea store at No. 188.
- Restrooms: There are two public toilets – one near the east entrance and one near the west end. They are maintained fairly well but can be crowded on weekends. I suggest using your hotel bathroom before heading out.
- Photography: The best shots are from the second-floor balconies of tea houses. Walk in, order a cup (10-20 CNY), and ask politely if you can go upstairs. Most owners allow it.
- Rainy day plan: The street has canopies overhead, so you can still enjoy it in light rain. For heavy downpours, duck into the Tunxi Museum (free) or the One Seal Paper Shop where they demonstrate ancient papermaking.
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