Eight Departments of Manchukuo: Explore Changchun's Wartime Architectural Legacy

I still remember my first walk down Xinmin Street in Changchun. On both sides, grand concrete buildings stared at me with stern facades—a silent reminder of a dark chapter in China's history. These are the Eight Departments of Manchukuo, the administrative backbone of the Japanese puppet state that existed from 1932 to 1945. But today, they're not just relics; they're living buildings used by universities and hospitals. Let me take you through what you need to know to explore them like a local history buff.

What Were the Eight Departments?

The Eight Departments were the central ministries of the Empire of Manchukuo, modeled after Japan's cabinet system. They included the Ministries of Justice, Finance, Industry, Agriculture, Communications, Education, Interior, and the Bureau of Civil Affairs. Each had its own imposing building, mostly along Xinmin Street and nearby areas. After 1945, these structures were repurposed—now you'll find Jilin University's medical school, a hospital, and other public institutions occupying them.

A Quick Rundown of the Key Ministries

• Ministry of Justice (now part of Jilin University's First Clinical Hospital) – The most ornate, with a prominent dome.
• Ministry of Finance (now the No.1 Hospital of Jilin University) – Massive and symmetrical.
• Ministry of Agriculture (now the Norman Bethune Medical School) – Features a striking colonnade.

Where to Find Them: A Self-Guided Route

Start at the southern end of Xinmin Street (near the junction with Jiefang Road). From there, walk north. You'll see the buildings one after another. Most are on the east and west sides of the street. The entire walk is about 1.5 kilometers, taking roughly 20 minutes if you just stroll, but I recommend at least 2 hours if you stop to examine details.

Suggested Stop Order

1. Ministry of Justice – Address: 829 Xinmin Street. Now part of the hospital complex. Look for the blue dome.
2. Ministry of Finance – Address: 71 Xinmin Street. Cross the street after the Justice building.
3. Ministry of Agriculture – Address: 829 Xinmin Street (actually same block but different entrance).
4. Ministry of Communications – Address: 6 Xinmin Street. Now used by Jilin University.
5. Ministry of Education – Address: 9 Xinmin Street. Right next to the Communications building.

After that, you'll reach the junction with the Cultural Square. If you still have energy, the old Manchukuo Imperial Palace is about 10 minutes away by taxi.

Architectural Highlights You Can't Miss

These buildings blend Japanese imperial style with European neoclassicism. Look for these elements:

• Domes and cupolas – The Ministry of Justice has a beautiful copper dome that turned green with age.
• Colossal columns – Many ministries have massive Corinthian or Ionic columns. Check the Ministry of Agriculture's portico.
• Granite foundations – The bases are often rough-hewn, symbolizing strength.
• Decorative reliefs – Some entrances have carved motifs of wheat, gears, or other symbols of the era.

Visiting Tips: Hours, Tickets, and Practical Info

Here's the honest truth: most of these buildings are not open to the public as museums. They're active workplaces. You can freely walk around the outside, take photos, and peek into the lobby if the door is open. Some buildings like the Ministry of Education sometimes allow access to the first floor.

• Entrance fee: Zero. It's public space outside. If you want to enter, you need a legitimate reason (e.g., visiting the hospital).
• Opening hours: The exteriors are accessible 24/7, but I'd stick to daylight hours for safety and lighting.
• Best photography: Between 7-9 AM for east-facing buildings; after 4 PM for west-facing ones. The golden hour just before sunset is magic.
• Getting there: Take Metro Line 1 to Cultural Square Station, Exit C. Walk 5 minutes south on Xinmin Street. Or taxi from anywhere in city center (about ¥15).
• Amenities: No restrooms inside buildings; use the public WC at Cultural Square or nearby KFC at the junction.

How to Blend History with Modern Changchun

Don't just see the buildings and leave. Combine your walk with other nearby spots:

• Cultural Square – A huge open plaza where locals fly kites. Great for people-watching.
• Jilin University Museum – Housed in a former Manchukuo building, it has exhibits on the region's history. Check opening times.
• Nanhu Park – A 20-minute walk east, good for a relaxing end.
• Guiti Street Food Market – Try local snacks like Ji Zhonghua (fried chicken) and Lengmian (cold noodles).

If you only have half a day, here's a tight schedule: 8 AM walk the Eight Departments (1.5 hours), 9:30 AM visit the Imperial Palace Museum of Manchukuo (2 hours), noon lunch at a nearby dumpling restaurant. That'll give you a solid dose of history without burnout.

Frequently Asked Questions

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