Yan Zhou
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Last month I dragged a couple from Texas through Jiaxing’s back alleys. They’d nearly booked a package tour that would have herded them through three overpriced “silk factories” in one morning. I stopped them. Because Jiaxing isn’t about the factories — it’s about Canal 1964, the worn stone bridges locals still cross, and the best scallion pancakes you’ll ever eat.
Most foreigners skip Jiaxing entirely, rushing to Wuzhen or Hangzhou. Big mistake. This two-day itinerary packs the authentic water town charm without the suffocating crowds — and I’ll tell you exactly where cash still works (and where it doesn’t).
Here’s the bottom line: If you only have 48 hours, spend Day 1 in the city proper (Nanhu Lake, Yuehe Old Street) and Day 2 in a genuine water town — either Wuzhen or Xitang. Both are reachable by bus or taxi. I favor Xitang for its live-in community feel. But more on that below.
Why Most Tourists Get It Wrong
They arrive without a booking. They try to pay with a card. They follow Google Maps into a dead end. Here is the three things you must do before you go:
- Download Alipay or WeChat Pay and link your international card. Most places won’t take cash. I’ve seen tourists turned away from street food stalls because they only had 50-yuan notes. Yes, it’s that digital.
- Install Apple Maps or AMap Global and pre-download the Jiaxing area. Google Maps is useless here — it’ll show you a restaurant that closed in 2019.
- Set up a VPN on your phone before you land. You’ll need it for WhatsApp, Instagram, or even Google.
- Book your main attractions in advance on Trip.com or via your hotel. Many require passport entry and have daily caps.
Day 1: Nanhu Lake & Old Streets
Morning: Nanhu Lake (南湖)
Start your day early at Nanhu Lake. The lake is the soul of Jiaxing. It’s where the first CPC Congress concluded on a boat (there’s a replica you can visit). But don’t just see the boat — walk the entire lakeside loop. It’s about 3.5 km, flat, and shaded by willows. I always tell my groups: come before 9:00 AM. After 10, the tour groups arrive and the paths get clogged.
- Ticket: Free to enter the lake area. The memorial boat (Soviet-style) costs 55 CNY. Book on Trip.com or the official WeChat mini-program (painful in Chinese — ask your hotel to do it). Bring your passport.
- Address: No. 1 Nanhu Road (南湖路1号). Show the taxi driver: “南湖景区”.
- Duration: 1.5–2 hours.
- Pro Tip: The best photo spot is from the bridge near the southeastern corner at 8:30 AM — the light hits the water just right.
Late Morning: Yuehe Old Street (月河历史街区)
A 15-minute taxi from Nanhu (about 12 CNY). This canal neighborhood is what you imagined a Chinese water town would look like — but without the ticket gate. It’s a living neighborhood with traditional houses, small museums, and decent food.
Don’t miss the silk museum inside (free) — it’s small but explains how silk is made. And absolutely try the scallion pancake (葱油饼) from the grandma near the eastern archway. Costs 5 CNY. She only takes Alipay or cash — have small bills ready.
- Lunch recommendation: “Jiaxing Old Restaurant” (嘉兴老饭店) on Yuehe Street. Order the “dongpo pork” (东坡肉) — it’s famously tender. Average cost per person: 60–80 CNY. They accept Alipay/WeChat but not international cards. No English menu, but they have picture menus.
Afternoon: Canal 1964 or Xiaoheng Lake?
Here is where I break from the standard guides. Most itineraries tell you to spend the whole afternoon at another lake (Xiaoheng Lake) or a temple. Don’t. Instead, take a 20-minute taxi (20 CNY) to Canal 1964 (运河1964) — a renovated industrial park with cafes, art galleries, and a few boutiques. It’s quiet on weekdays and perfect for an afternoon espresso. My favorite spot is “Nanhu Coffee” — their cold brew is strong enough to wake a corpse.
If you prefer more traditional sights, skip Canal 1964 and go to Xiaoheng Lake (小横湖) — but honestly, it’s just a small lake with a pagoda. I’d save your energy.
Evening: South Lake Dinner & Night View
Return to the Nanhu area for dinner. The pedestrian street Linggongtang (凌公塘) has a row of local restaurants. I always take my groups to “A Mui Jia” (阿梅家) — try the stinky tofu (smelly but good!) and braised bamboo shoots. Cash or mobile payment only.
After dinner, walk along the south bank of Nanhu. The lights reflect on the water — it’s magical. The best view is from the vicinity of the Haoqian Garden (濠秦园).
Day 2: Water Town – Wuzhen or Xitang?
You have two main options, and they’re very different. Let me break it down so you can choose based on your vibe.
| Criteria | Wuzhen (乌镇) | Xitang (西塘) |
|---|---|---|
| Distance from Jiaxing | 45 min by taxi (120 CNY) | 40 min by taxi (110 CNY) |
| Entrance Fee | 150 CNY (includes all sights) | 95 CNY (includes small museums) |
| Crowds | Very crowded (especially weekends) | Moderate, more locals on weekdays |
| Authenticity | Fully restored, somewhat theme-parkish | Still has residents, lived-in feel |
| Best for | First-timers who want a clean, photogenic water town | Travelers seeking local vibe, nightlife |
| Night Scene | Boat rides lit up, but everything closes by 9 PM | Bars along the canal stay open till late |
My pick: Xitang. I’ve taken dozens of groups to both, and Xitang wins for its living alleys — you’ll see grandmas washing vegetables in the canal, kids playing by the bridge. Wuzhen feels like a meticulously curated museum; Xitang feels like a town.
Morning: Get to Xitang Early
Leave your hotel by 8:00 AM to beat the tour buses. Take a taxi from Jiaxing city center to Xitang’s entrance — 40 minutes, around 110 CNY. Don’t bother with the bus from the train station; it takes twice as long and drops you far from the entrance.
- Buy your ticket online (Trip.com or Klook) to skip the queue. Show the QR code and your passport at the gate.
- Walk the main alley (West Street) from west to east. Stop at the Zhenwu Palace (真武庙) — free with entrance ticket — for a panoramic view of the rooftops.
- Hidden corner: Turn left at the second bridge after the ticket gate. There’s a tiny square with a 500-year-old ginkgo tree. Almost no tourists go here.
Lunch: Lakeside Noodles
Find “Old Bridge Noodle” (老桥面馆) near the West Gate. The owner doesn’t speak English, but point at the yangchun noodles (阳春面) option. Costs 12 CNY. Simple, perfect. Have cash ready — this place is cash-only.
Afternoon: Explore the Tang Dynasty Street
Xitang’s core retains a Tang dynasty layout (yes, that old). Walk along the canal towards the East Gate. Along the way, you’ll find:
- Wine Museum — free, smells of rice wine, lots of bottles you can photograph
- Kite Museum — tiny but colorful
- Local snacks: Try hulatang (糊辣汤) from a street cart — it’s a spicy soup with tripe and glass noodles. 5 CNY.
Avoid the “old-fashioned” photo studios that try to dress you in Hanfu for 300 CNY. Unless that’s your thing — but the quality is hit-or-miss.
Evening: Bar Hopping or Boat Ride
As sunset hits, the alley lights come on. This is prime time. Take a gondola ride (20-30 minutes, 60 CNY per person) just before dusk — the colors are insane. After, head to “Diary Bar” on the east bank. It’s run by a local guy who speaks decent English. Order a local rice beer (10 CNY) and listen to the water.
Return to Jiaxing by 10 PM — taxis are available outside the main entrance. Alternatively, stay overnight in Xitang if you want to soak in the morning mist. (I don’t recommend it; accommodations are overpriced and mediocre.)
Where to Stay in Jiaxing
For a 2-day trip, stay in the city center near the lake. Here are three solid options:
| Hotel | Location | Price Range (per night) | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jiaxing Marriott Hotel | 5 min walk to Nanhu Lake | 600–900 CNY | Couples, comfort, English-speaking staff, reliable Wi-Fi |
| Jiaxing Suning Hotel | Near Yuehe Street | 300–500 CNY | Budget travelers, good location, decent breakfast |
| Xitang Hostel (if staying overnight) | Inside Xitang Old Town | 150–250 CNY (dorm) / 400–600 (private) | Backpackers, but noisy at night |
Important: All hotels expect your passport for check-in. Confirm they accept foreign guests before booking — but most do in Jiaxing. Ask the front desk to help you book train tickets or taxis if needed.
What to Eat: Local Favorites
Jiaxing cuisine is part of the Zhejiang tradition — light, sweet, and fresh. Here are the dishes I always order:
- 粽子 (Zongzi): Glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves. Find the famous “Wufangzhai” (五芳斋) shop — they have a store on Zhongshan Road. Try the pork yolk version (8 CNY).
- 东坡肉 (Dongpo Pork): Braised pork belly, fatty but divine. Best at “Jiaxing Old Restaurant” (see Day 1 lunch).
- 南湖菱 (Nanhu Ling): Water chestnut from the lake — eaten raw or boiled. Look for street vendors near the lake selling them in summer.
- 长安莲子羹 (Changan Lotus Seed Soup): Sweet dessert, available in most restaurants.
Watch out for: Many “local specialty” shops near tourist spots charge triple. I saw a pack of zongzi selling for 35 CNY that costs 12 CNY at the supermarket.
FAQ: Your Top Questions Answered
Barely. You'll be fine at big hotels and some restaurants, but street food, small shops, and even some museum ticket counters won't accept cash. Get Alipay before you come — you can connect a foreign credit card. If you really can't, bring enough small bills (10 and 20 yuan) and expect to say “没有零钱” (méi yǒu líng qián) — they might not have change. Honestly, it's a headache.
Take the high-speed train from Shanghai Hongqiao to Jiaxing Nan (嘉兴南站). Trains run every 20–30 minutes, take about 30 minutes, and cost 40–50 CNY. Book tickets on Trip.com or 12306. Note: you'll need your passport to both purchase and board. Avoid the slow train (K-trains) — they take 1.5 hours and are not worth the savings.
Absolutely. China in general is safe, and Jiaxing is no exception. I've had solo female clients walk around Yuehe Street at 10 PM without issues. Standard precautions apply: watch your belongings in crowded areas, avoid unlit alleyways. The main annoyance is aggressive touts asking you to buy tea or souvenirs — just ignore and keep walking.
March-April and September-October. Spring has pleasant temperatures and blooming flowers around Nanhu. Autumn is mild with clear skies. Summer (June-August) is hot and humid, plus sudden rainstorms — your indoor backup could be the Jiaxing Museum. Winter is cold (0–10°C) but fewer tourists; just pack layers. Avoid Chinese national holidays (Golden Week in October, May Day) — prices triple and crowds are insane.
Yes. While younger people in tourist spots may speak some English, taxi drivers, restaurant staff, and shopkeepers rarely do. Download Apple Translate or Baidu Translate (works offline). Have a printed card in Chinese for key things like: “Please take me to Nanhu Lake” (请带我到南湖景区). Also, many restaurants have picture menus — just point.
Verified and fact-checked by the editorial team.
I get what this itinerary tries to do, but it fell short for me. The 'hidden' alley was packed with other tourists following the same guide, so no peace there. The free walking route turned out to be a two-hour slog through construction sites and souvenir stalls. And the local snack place recommended was out of stock by noon. Felt like the writer oversold the 'untouched' vibe. Okay for a first timer, but don't expect solitude.
Overall a solid plan, and I appreciated the emphasis on avoiding crowds. However, one of the recommended local buses didn't run on the day we went (maybe a holiday schedule?), so we had to take a taxi which cost more. Also, the little garden suggested for afternoon tea was closed for renovation. Still a good trip and better than the generic tours, just a bit outdated on some details.
I’m a foodie and this itinerary was perfect. Instead of the flashy restaurants on the main street, it pointed us to a family-run noodle shop hidden behind a temple. The hand-pulled noodles with braised pork were incredible, and we even got to watch them make the dough. Also loved the stop at the local market for fresh longan. Real food, real life. Five stars.
Spot on. The tip about getting to the old town before 8am was a game changer. Mist rising off the canals, just a few grandpas playing chess by the bridge – pure magic. We avoided the crowded main pier and went to the tucked-away stone bridge the guide mentioned. The sunset photo from there is my profile picture now. So glad we skipped the tourist traps.
This itinerary saved our trip! We almost booked the overpriced gondola ride at Xitang, but followed the advice to take the local ferry instead. The little alleyway teahouse recommended on Day 2 had the best osmanthus cake I've ever tasted—no tourist buses in sight. Felt like we actually saw the real water town, not a theme park. Highly recommend if you want peace and authenticity.
I came expecting a hidden gem, but honestly it wasn’t much different from the tourist traps I wanted to avoid. The ‘secret’ restaurant in the itinerary was closed on a Tuesday (no mention of that), and the map directions near the north canal were confusing — ended up in a dead‑end alley full of trash bins. The concept is nice, but the execution felt outdated. If you’re short on time, maybe skip this and just pick one classic water town.
Good overall, but not perfect. The morning at the real water village was fantastic — exactly what I wanted, with narrow alleys and old stone bridges. However, the afternoon on Day 2 felt a bit thin; we finished the recommended walk by 2pm and had nothing else to do except walk around the same shops. Maybe add a short boat ride or a tea‑tasting stop? Still, great value and better than the packaged tours.
Honestly, best decision to use this guide instead of just wandering. The local lunch spot near the East Gate of Jiaxing — the one with the grandma making shengjian bao — was a highlight. My partner and I are picky eaters and every meal was a winner. The route was easy to follow, even for first‑timers. For the price of a couple of bubble teas, you get a genuinely curated trip. Loved it.
I’ve been to a few water towns before and always left feeling ripped off. This guide changed everything. The hidden alleyways behind the main tourist street in Wuzhen’s west sector were empty and gorgeous — got some of my best travel photos there. Only regret: we only had two days. Wish I’d booked three to explore more of the side canals. Still, 5/5 for the real-deal experience.
This itinerary was spot on for escaping the crowds. We followed the morning walk through Xitang before 9am — just us and the locals washing clothes by the canal. The breakfast spot they recommended (the one with the handmade scallion pancakes) was incredible. Felt like we really saw a living water town, not a theme park. Highly recommend if you want authenticity over selfie sticks.