Su Lin
I’ve been guiding tours in Luoyang for over a decade, and I still get a thrill every time I walk out of the subway at Longmen Station and see those cliffs emerge. But honestly — most English guides miss the real flavor. They’ll tell you to ‘see the Big Wild Goose Pagoda’ (wrong city!) or recommend a ‘traditional street’ that’s basically a shopping mall. So let me save you the trouble.
Here’s the raw truth: Luoyang is old — over 4,000 years of history, capital of 13 dynasties. But it’s not a museum. It’s a living, breathing city where locals still go for morning runs along the ancient city wall and slurp beef soup before 9 a.m.
Must-Visit Historical Sites
First, let’s talk about the Big Three that no first-timer should skip. But I’ll also throw in a lesser-known gem that even many tour guides miss.
Longmen Grottoes – The Real Deal
You can’t say you’ve been to Luoyang without seeing this UNESCO site. It’s a cliffside gallery of over 100,000 Buddhist statues carved between the 5th and 8th centuries.
Ticket prices: 90 RMB (adult), free for kids under 1.2m or seniors 60+ with ID. You can get tickets on WeChat mini-program ‘龙门石窟’ or at the gate (lines move fast). Open 8:00–17:30 (last entry 17:00). Plan for at least 3 hours; the site is mostly outdoors and involves a lot of stairs.
Getting there: Take Metro Line 2 to Longmen Station, exit C. It’s a 10-minute walk to the entrance — you’ll smell roasted chestnuts from street vendors near the station. Follow the crowd, but resist the urge to buy souvenirs at the first stall; prices drop 20% deeper inside.
White Horse Temple – The First Buddhist Temple in China
Built in 68 AD, this is where Buddhism really took root in China. The temple complex is bigger than you’d think — it includes Thai, Indian, and Burmese-style temples added in recent years.
I always tell my groups: don’t rush past the original courtyard. There’s a small hall with a 700-year-old dry lacquer statue of the Buddha that most tourists miss because they’re too busy snapping the Thai stupa. Ticket: 35 RMB (adults), open 7:30–17:30. Takes about 2 hours to see properly.
It’s on the eastern edge of the city. Take Bus 56 or 58 from the train station — or just grab a Didi for around 30 RMB from downtown.
Luoyang Museum – The Underrated Goldmine
This is my secret weapon for beating the heat or a rainy day. The museum is free (just show your passport) and houses an incredible collection of Tang dynasty ceramics, including the famous ‘Tang Sancai’ (three-color glazed pottery). The jade collection is mind-blowing.
Check-in tip: Reserve tickets via WeChat mini-program ‘洛阳博物馆’ at least 2 days in advance. I’ve seen travelers turned away on weekends because they thought it’s walk-in. Open 9:00–17:00 (closed on Mondays).
Location: 298 Wenbo Road. Metro Line 2 to Wenbo Yuan, exit A.
How to Get Around Luoyang
Metro: Two lines (Line 1 east-west, Line 2 north-south). They meet at Zhouwangcheng Square. The trains are clean, have English announcements, and you can buy tickets from machines with a QR code (Alipay or WeChat). A single ride costs 2–5 RMB.
Buses: Cheap (1 RMB) but often crowded and signs are mostly Chinese. I recommend Didi (Chinese Uber) or taxis for short trips. Taxis start at 8 RMB, but make sure the driver uses the meter if you hail one on the street. Didi is safer and prices are fixed upfront.
Electric bike (scenic option): You can rent a shared e-bike via apps like Hellobike (requires Chinese phone number). Alternatively, hire a private driver for half a day — cost about 200–300 RMB. Ask your hotel to arrange one; it’s how I roll with my groups when we want flexibility.
Where to Eat Like a Local
Luoyang food is hearty and heavy on beef, lamb, and noodles. Forget the tourist-trap ‘water banquets’ (they’re overpriced and bland). Here’s what I actually eat with my friends.
Beef Soup – The Breakfast of Champions
Locals line up before 7 a.m. for a bowl of clear beef broth with chunks of tendon and tripe. My go-to spot: Ma Jie Beef Soup, near Laoji. Address: 28 Zhongzhou East Road. A large bowl is 20 RMB, add a sesame pancake for 2 RMB. The broth simmers overnight — you can smell it from down the street. Pay in cash or WeChat, no English menu but just point at the photo. They open 5:30–12:00 (yes, morning only!).
Water Banquet – The Real One
Okay, I said avoid the tourist versions, but if you insist on trying the famous 24-course ‘water banquet,’ go to Zhen Butong near the Old City. It’s the original and still decent. A set menu for two starts at 150 RMB. The dishes come one after another like a parade — some are sour, some spicy, all soupy. My favorite: peony bird’s nest – not real bird’s nest, but a delicate turnip-based creation that looks like a flower.
Night Market at Laoji
Every evening from 6 p.m., the street near Laoji turns into a food paradise. Try the fried dough twist, candied haw sticks, and lamb skewers (15 RMB for 10). Don’t eat the stinky tofu unless you’re brave — I’ve seen grown men run away. The stalls accept WeChat, but carry some cash just in case.
Best Time to Visit & Avoid Crowds
Spring (April–May) is glorious — peonies bloom everywhere (Luoyang is the peony capital). But also peak domestic tourism. Fall (Sep–Oct) offers mild weather and fewer crowds. Summer is brutally hot (35°C+) and humid; try to go out before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m. Winter can be chilly (0–8°C) but the sites are empty — you’ll have Longmen almost to yourself.
Time your visits: Longmen Grottoes opens at 8:00. I recommend arriving at 7:45 so you’re first in line for the west bank. The worst crowd time is 10:00–14:00. On weekends, avoid entirely if you can. For White Horse Temple, go early too — by late morning it’s packed with tour groups.
Recommended Itinerary for 1-2 Days
If You Have Only One Day
- 7:30 – 8:30: Breakfast at Ma Jie Beef Soup (go early to skip line).
- 9:00 – 12:00: Longmen Grottoes (east bank first, then west).
- 12:30 – 13:30: Quick noodle lunch near Longmen — try Luoyang Boss Noodles at a small shop across the street.
- 14:00 – 16:00: Luoyang Museum (avoid afternoon sun).
- 16:30 – 18:00: Walk around Old City (Laoji) and climb the city wall for sunset views.
- 18:30 onwards: Night market street food and a cold beer.
If you have a second day, add White Horse Temple in the morning and the Guanlin Temple (tomb of Guan Yu) in the afternoon. Or take a day trip to nearby Shaolin Temple (about 1.5 hours by bus).
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