Luoyang

What an absolutely incredible city. As someone who studied Chinese history, Luoyang was a pilgrimage, and it exceeded every expectation. The Longmen Grottoes are world-class — yes, it can get busy, but go late afternoon and the golden light on the Yi River is unforgettable. The White Horse Temple surprised me with its blend of ancient pagodas and quiet courtyards. And the Grand Canal museum in Luoyang is a hidden gem; I had whole halls to myself. Even the ordinary streets are full of subtle historical layers. The water banquet was a fun, slightly overpriced experience, but worth trying once for the cultural ritual. This is a city that rewards slow travellers. I’m already planning another trip back.

Luoyang ended up being the surprise favourite of my month in China. I’m a budget traveller, so I stayed in a little hostel near the railway station and ate whatever the grandmas were cooking at the food stalls. The spicy soup with noodles (I think it’s called beef soup?) was 10 yuan and so warming. The Longmen Grottoes are obviously mind-blowing, but the best part for me was renting a bike and riding along the old city walls — almost no tourists, just locals doing tai chi and playing cards. The people were so kind. A random uncle even walked me half a kilometre to the bus stop. I left Luoyang feeling like I’d actually connected with a place, not just crossed it off a list. Wish I’d had more than two days.

I’ve photographed a lot of ancient religious sites in Asia, and Longmen Grottoes genuinely gave me chills. We went at 7:30 right after opening and basically had the cliffside to ourselves for the first hour. The light hit the big Vairocana Buddha perfectly, and the sheer scale of carving into the rock is something you can’t capture in photos. The museum is also superb, with nice labels in English, and the peony garden was in full bloom when we went. Every corner of this city feels layered with dynasties. I could spend another week here. Easily one of the best historical destinations in China.

Solid four-day stop on the ancient capital trail. The Longmen Grottoes deserve their fame, though the steps around the big Buddha were steeper and more slippery than I expected — take good shoes. I really loved the Luoyang Museum: the layout is clear, the collections are stunning, and it doesn't have huge queues like the main sights. The city has a lived-in quality that I appreciated; walking along the Luo River at sunset with locals flying kites was the highlight for me. Only real letdown was the 'Old Town' street, which felt like every night-market snack street in China, with neon signs and inflated prices. Still, a worthwhile place with deep layers of history.

I wanted to love Luoyang a lot more than I did. The Longmen Grottoes are undeniably impressive, but the experience got ruined by the crowds and constant pushing at the viewing terraces. You can't really stop to admire the Buddha faces because the line moves so fast. The site itself is dusty and the shuttle drop-off is a long, confusing walk. I also found the museum's exhibits hard to access without Chinese-language explanations. It's a place with thousands of years of history, and I could feel that, but the tourist management makes it feel a bit like a conveyor belt. Okay, not bad, but I left with mixed feelings.

Honestly, I was a bit disappointed. The old town area felt like a tourist trap – all souvenir shops and loud music, not much authentic atmosphere. The famous Lijing Gate was under renovation when I visited, so that was a letdown. Also, getting around was tricky; the bus routes weren't clear and taxis were hard to find near the attractions. Maybe my expectations were too high, but I expected more from such a historic city.