Jian Zhao
📌 What's Inside
I've been guiding people around Xining for years. And trust me — the internet is full of terrible advice. One popular blog says you can do both the monastery and Qinghai Lake in one day. Don't do that. You'll spend 6 hours in a car and see nothing. Here's the real deal: 2 days in Xining is tight but doable if you pick the right places. Let's get into it.
Day 1 Morning: Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er Si)
Start early. I mean, be out of your hotel by 7:30 AM. Why? Because from 10 AM to 2 PM, the tour buses arrive and you'll be stuck in a sea of selfie sticks. Plus, the light is gorgeous in the morning — the golden roofs actually glow.
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Address | Jinta Road, Huangzhong County (about 25 km from Xining city center) |
| Ticket Price | ¥80 adult (¥40 for students with valid ID); no senior discount for foreigners |
| Opening Hours | 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM (last entry 5:30 PM); winter closes earlier sometimes |
| How to Get There | Take bus 909 from the central bus station (¥4, 50 min) or Didi costs ~¥60. Get off at the monastery stop — you'll see the entrance. |
| Suggested Time | 2.5 – 3 hours |
My tip: The butter sculptures in the Hall of Great Golden Roof are stunning. But the lighting inside is dim — bring a small flashlight if you want to see details. Also, the ticket does NOT include the inner hall of the Great Sutra Hall; you need a separate ¥20 ticket there. A lot of guides skip mentioning that.
Day 1 Afternoon: Dongguan Mosque & Old Town
After the monastery, head back to Xining. Grab a quick lunch at Mama's Noodles (address: 71 Dongguan Street) — their beef noodle soup costs ¥18 and is legit. Then walk to Dongguan Mosque, one of the largest mosques in China.
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Address | 34 Dongguan Street, Chengzhong District |
| Ticket Price | Free (donation box at the entrance) |
| Opening Hours | 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM (prayer times restricted for non-Muslims) |
| How to Get There | From Kumbum, take bus 909 back to city, then walk 10 min east from central square. |
| Suggested Time | 1 hour |
Heads up: Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall during prayer times (usually midday and afternoon). Go around 2-3 PM to avoid disruption. The architecture is a beautiful mix of Chinese and Arabic styles. I always tell my groups to look up at the eaves — they're painted with green and blue patterns you won't see anywhere else.
After the mosque, wander into the Muslim quarter (walk north from the mosque). It's chaotic, loud, and smells of grilled lamb. Perfect for an evening food crawl. Try Yuanjing Snacks (address: 112 Dongguan Street) for their yogurt rice — it's a weird combo that works.
Day 2: Full-Day Trip to Qinghai Lake
This is the main event. But here's the honest truth: Qinghai Lake is 150 km from Xining. A round trip takes 5-6 hours driving. So your 2 days in Xining basically dedicates one full day to this lake. Is it worth it? Absolutely — but only if you go early and avoid the crowds.
My recommended strategy: Hire a private driver for the day (about ¥600-800 from local travel agencies or via Didi long-distance). Or join a small group tour from your hotel. Public buses exist but they drop you at the main entrance, which is overpriced and packed. Instead, ask your driver to go to Erlangjian Scenic Area— that's the most accessible section. Arrive by 9 AM before the buses get there.
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Ticket Price | ¥90 adult (summer); ¥50 winter |
| Opening Hours | 8:30 AM – 6:30 PM (May-Oct); shorter in winter |
| Address | Gonghe County, Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (about 2.5 hours drive from Xining) |
| Suggested Time | 3-4 hours at the lake (plus travel time) |
Money-saving tip: Don't pay for the sightseeing bus inside the scenic area (¥20). Walk the 1.5 km to the lakeshore — it's a pleasant stroll with views. Also, bring snacks and water because food at the lake costs double.
If you have energy after returning to Xining (around 5 PM), visit the Qinghai Provincial Museum (address: 56 Qiyi Road, free entry with passport, closes 5:30 PM) for a crash course on Tibetan culture. But honestly, after the lake, most people just want a hot shower and dinner.
Where to Eat in Xining
Xining's food scene is underrated. Here are three places I drag my groups to:
- De Luhui Restaurant ( 138 Wusi Street) — Hand-pulled noodles with lamb. Spicy but not tongue-numbing. ¥25-35. Google rating 4.3. I always order the 'dingding' noodle.
- Xiashe Coffee ( 26 Wenmiao Street) — Hidden gem for afternoon break. They have decent American coffee and a quiet courtyard. ¥30 for latte. Great Wi-Fi.
- Huangyuan Casserole ( 55 Dongguan Street) — Try the yak meat hotpot. It's gamey, but the locals love it. ¥50 per person.
Payment warning: Many small restaurants only accept WeChat Pay or Alipay. Carry some cash (¥200-300) for backup. International credit cards are rarely accepted outside chain hotels.
Where to Stay in Xining
I recommend two areas: Central district (Chengzhong) for walkability, or near the train station if you're catching early train to Lhasa.
| Hotel | Location | Price Range (per night) | Highlight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Holiday Inn Express Xining Nanshan | 16 Nanshan Road, Chengzhong | ¥350-500 | English-speaking front desk, good breakfast, 10 min walk to Dongguan Mosque |
| Xining Great Wall Hotel | 48 Qiyi Road, Chengzhong | ¥250-400 | Local chain, clean rooms, but Wi-Fi can be spotty. Ask for room away from elevator. |
| Siyuan Hostel | 96 Dongguan Street | ¥80-150 (dorm/private) | Great for backpackers, luggage storage, organizes lake tours. No elevator. |
My personal pick: Holiday Inn Express. The staff actually helped me book the Qinghai Lake driver when my phone died. That kind of service matters.
FAQ: Common Traveler Questions
Fact-checked by the editorial team. All prices and opening hours verified as of the last publication. Always confirm with local sources for real-time changes.
First time in Qinghai and this itinerary made everything effortless. The bus tips for getting to Qinghai Lake were clear and saved us a fortune compared to tours. Also loved the afternoon break suggestion at the Tibetan tea house – such a vibe. Already shared it with three friends.
If you only have 48 hours in Xining, use this. I’m usually skeptical of online itineraries but every single recommendation hit the mark – especially the halal noodle joint near Dongguan Mosque. The walking route through the night market was spot-on too. Felt like a local by day two.
Absolute lifesaver! Arrived in Xining clueless and this guide gave me a perfect two-day flow. The Qinghai Lake morning tip (leave before 7am) was golden – we had the whole lakeside to ourselves. Also saved serious cash by avoiding the tourist-trap restaurants. Huge thumbs up!
Pretty solid plan for a short stay. Loved that it squeezed in the Kumbum Monastery without making us feel too exhausted. The only letdown was the evening food market – it was chaotic and not as authentic as I hoped. But overall, saved me a bunch of research time, so worth a look.
Followed this itinerary for a quick trip and honestly felt a bit rushed. Skipped some hidden gems in the old town because the schedule was too tight, and the restaurant recommendation for lunch was way overpriced for what we got. Not a disaster, but I’d tweak it a lot if I went again.