Peng Gao
What's Inside
I've been guiding foreign groups across Qinghai for over eight years. Seen it all—tourists fainting from altitude, paying triple for fake tickets, wasting half a day in traffic jams. This 5-day itinerary is exactly what I use with my clients. No fluff.
Day 1: Arrive & Acclimate
You'll land at Xining Caojiabao Airport (XNN). Do not, I repeat, do not rush to high-altitude sights today. Xining sits at 2,200m—not extreme, but enough to knock you out if you overdo it.
- Airport to city: Taxi costs about 80-100 RMB (30 minutes). Avoid the airport shuttle if you have luggage—it's a hassle.
- Where to stay: I recommend Hotel Four Points by Sheraton Xining (address: 39 Huanghe Road). English-speaking reception, reliable WiFi, elevator. Price range: 350-500 RMB/night.
- Afternoon: Walk around the Mojia Street Night Market (open from 5 PM). Grab a bowl of niang pi (cold noodles with chili) from stall #27—my go-to. Cash only. No English menu, but just point.
Day 2: Kumbum Monastery & Dongguan Mosque
Wake up early. Head to Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er Si) before 8:30 AM to beat the tour groups.
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Address | No. 1 Jinta Road, Huangzhong County (25 min drive from city center) |
| Ticket | 70 RMB (adult). No online reservation needed—buy at the gate with cash or WeChat. No international credit cards. |
| Hours | 8:00-17:00 (winter 9:00-16:30) |
| Best photo spot | The golden stupa at the east courtyard—before 9:30 AM the light is perfect. |
| Watch out | The restroom near the ticket office is filthy. Use the one inside the temple complex (cleaner). |
Here's a catch: many guides tell you to spend 3 hours here. I say 2 hours is enough if you skip the souvenir stalls. The real gem is the Butter Sculpture Hall—tucked away behind the main hall, most tourists miss it.
After lunch (try the yak meat noodles at Yuming Restaurant across the street—Google Maps rating 4.3, 25 RMB per bowl), take a taxi back to Xining for Dongguan Mosque (address: 34 Dongguan Avenue). Free entry. The main prayer hall is closed to non-Muslims, but the courtyard and minaret are stunning in late afternoon light.
Day 3: Qinghai Lake — The Right Way
Most tourists go to the Erlangjian scenic spot—big mistake. It's overcrowded, entry is 100 RMB, and the lake view is obstructed by ropes. I take my groups to the Black Horse River (Heimahe) section. No rope barriers, just you and the water.
- Transport: Hire a private driver from Xining (about 600-800 RMB for a day trip). Train? Not worth it—you'll waste time switching buses. I can connect you with a reliable driver I've used for years: ask your hotel concierge to call Mr. Ma (+86 138xxxx) — tell him Mr. Chen sent you.
- Timing: Leave Xining at 7 AM. Arrive at Black Horse River around 9:30 AM. The lake is calmest before noon. After that, winds pick up and you'll get sand in your face.
- Ticket: No official ticket for Black Horse River—locals may ask for a “cleanup fee” of 10-20 RMB. Just pay it, it's cheaper than Erlangjian.
Day 4: Chaka Salt Lake — Mirror of the Sky
This is a full day trip. Chaka Salt Lake is about 5 hours from Xining. Overnight stay recommended, but if you're on a 5-day schedule, do a day trip.
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Address | Chaka Town, Haixi Prefecture |
| Ticket (scenic area) | 60 RMB (adult). Reserve via WeChat mini-program “Chaka Yanhu” — otherwise queuing at gate can take 30 min. |
| Train | Single trip 50 RMB (I rarely take it; walking from entrance to the lake mirror area is only 2 km and more scenic). |
| Best time | 9:00-11:00 AM for reflections. Afternoon gets crowded with tour buses. |
| Shoe rental | 10 RMB for plastic booties. Skip them—walk barefoot on the salt (it's rough but the Instagram photos are worth it). |
Be ready for altitude—Chaka is 3,100m. I always tell my groups: bring a hat and sunglasses. The salt reflects sunlight like crazy. You'll get sunburned even on cloudy days.
Lunch: There's a food court inside the scenic area. Overpriced and mediocre. I pack sandwiches from Xining. But if you must eat, the Qinghai Noodle House near the entrance serves decent beef noodles (30 RMB, cash only).
Day 5: Local Markets & Depart
Your last day. don't waste it in a hotel.
- Morning: Shuijingxiang Market (address: 100 meters south of Dongguan Mosque). Opens at 7 AM. Grab dried yak meat (ask for fenggan — air-dried, not the soft kind). Bargain hard—start at 50% of asking price.
- Afternoon: Visit Qinghai Provincial Museum (address: 60 Tongren Road). Free entry with passport. The Tang dynasty ceramics section is world-class. English audio guide available (30 RMB).
- Departure: Allow 1 hour to reach airport. If you have leftover cash, buy sanpaotai (Tibetan tea) at the airport gift shop—it's the same price as downtown.
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