What You'll Find Here
- How to Survive the Crowds on Huangshan Mountain
- Discovering Hongcun and Xidi: Ancient Villages Worth the Hype
- Strolling Tunxi Old Street: Food, Souvenirs, and a Trap to Avoid
- Where to Stay: Tunxi vs. Tangkou
- What to Eat: Must-Try Dishes and Where to Find Them
- How to Plan a 3-Day Itinerary for Huangshan City
- Frequently Asked Questions
Last autumn, I was standing with a group from Australia at the South Gate of Huangshan Mountain. They were exhausted, the crowd was massive, and we couldn’t get a Didi for 20 minutes because the network was jammed. I swore I’d never let my clients make that scheduling mistake again. So here is the honest truth about things to do in Huangshan City — not the sanitized version you get from brochures, but the real, nuts-and-bolts guide that will save you time, money, and frustration.
- Book the mountain entry ticket and cable car at least 3 days ahead on the official WeChat mini-program (or ask your hotel to do it).
- Skip the hot meal on the mountain — bring your own snacks and refill water at rest stops.
- Stay in Tunxi Old Street area, not the mountain base, for better food and transport connections.
How to Survive the Crowds on Huangshan Mountain
Yes, it’s beautiful. Yes, it’s crowded. On a typical October weekday, over 30,000 people ascend the mountain. But with a few tricks, you can still have a peaceful experience.
Entrance Gates: Which One to Pick?
Most tourists go to the South Gate (Yungu Temple). That’s a mistake. The queue for the cable car here often exceeds 2 hours by 9 a.m. Instead, head to the North Gate (Songgu) via the Taiping cableway. It’s less crowded and skips the infamous “Stairway to Heaven” bottleneck. The trade-off: you miss the beginning of the classic Bright Summit route. But if you want solitude, North Gate is your friend.
Timing: The Golden Window
Arrive at your chosen gate by 7:00 a.m. (the park opens at 6:30 a.m. in peak season). I know it hurts, but the reward is an empty path to the Lion Peak for sunrise. If you’re not a morning person, another window opens at 3:00 p.m. — day-trippers are leaving, and the light softens for photos.
Ticket and Logistics
Entry fee: 190 RMB (peak season) / 150 RMB (off-peak). Cable car one-way: 80-100 RMB. You must book in advance via the “Huangshan Tourism Official” WeChat mini-program. There’s no English version, so screenshot the pages and use WeChat’s translate feature, or have your hotel receptionist help. Bring your passport — scanning at the gate is mandatory.
Discovering Hongcun and Xidi: Ancient Villages Worth the Hype
Hongcun is the one you’ve seen in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Xidi is quieter, with more scholar architecture. If you have time for only one, pick Hongcun — but be prepared for coachloads of tourists.
Hongcun
Address: Hongcun Village, Yi County. Take a bus from Huangshan City (Tunxi) or from Tangkou (the mountain base). The ride is about 1 hour from Tunxi, 40 minutes from Tangkou. Buses run every 30 minutes from the long-distance station; cost ~25 RMB.
Ticket: 104 RMB (includes mandatory shuttle from the parking lot). The ticket is valid for 3 days, so you can stay overnight in the village and explore at dawn. I always tell my guests to sleep in a local guesthouse inside Hongcun — waking up to the mist over Moon Pond is worth every penny.
Xidi
Less commercialized. Entry: 104 RMB. You can walk the entire village in 2 hours. The highlight is the Hu Wenguang Archway. Combine Hongcun and Xidi in one day if you start early. There’s a direct bus between them (20 min, 8 RMB).
Strolling Tunxi Old Street: Food, Souvenirs, and a Trap to Avoid
Tunxi Old Street is a Ming-dynasty-style pedestrian lane stretching 1.5 km. It’s beautiful at night with red lanterns. But the souvenir shops? Mostly identical mass-produced trinkets. Here is what’s actually worth your time:
What to Eat on Tunxi Old Street
- Zhenzhong Food House — No. 168 Old Street. Try the braised stinky tofu (authentic, not the tourist version) and bamboo shoots with cured pork. Google Maps rating: 4.3. Prices: 40-80 RMB per person. Cash or WeChat Pay only.
- Wang Ji Ji — Near the east entrance. Their fried tofu balls with chilli sauce are addictive. Almost always a line, but it moves fast.
- Bamboo Rice — Stalls sell this sticky rice cooked inside bamboo tubes. It’s a gimmick but fun. 25 RMB.

The Trap: “Tea Ceremony” Scams
Women may invite you to a free tea tasting in a back room. They’ll pressure you to buy expensive “aged” tea at inflated prices. I’ve had guests pay 500 RMB for tea worth 50. Just smile and say “bú yào, xiè xiè” (no, thanks).
Where to Stay: Tunxi vs. Tangkou
| Area | Pros | Cons | Best For | Sample Hotel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tunxi (city center) | Lively night market, food choices, bus station to villages/huangshan | Further from mountain (1 hour drive) | First‑timers wanting culture and food | Huangshan International Hotel – 3-star, English speaking staff, breakfast included. Doubles ~400 RMB. |
| Tangkou (mountain base) | Closest to south gate (15 min bus) | Limited dining, all hotels overpriced for quality | Early risers doing a single-day summit | Old Street Hostel – dorm beds 80 RMB, private 250 RMB. Minimal English. |
I recommend Tunxi. You get better value, and the 1-hour drive to the mountain is easy with a Didi (about 120 RMB). Plus you can walk to Tunxi Old Street for dinner.
What to Eat: Must-Try Dishes and Where to Find Them
- Stinky Tofu – Not actually stinky, it’s fermented and tastes like pungent cheese. Head to Da Ming Restaurant at 178 Old Street. They claim to have the original recipe. 38 RMB per dish.
- Bamboo Shoots with Ham – A spring dish. Local restaurants serve it with mountain ham. Ask for “zhu sǔn shāo huǒ tuǐ”.
- Huizhou Muffin – Flaky pastry filled with dried meat. Perfect for hiking. Buy from Zhou’s Bakery at the west end of Tunxi.
How to Plan a 3-Day Itinerary for Huangshan City
Here is a realistic schedule I use for my clients, factoring in transport and rest.
Day 1: Arrival & Tunxi Old Street
Take a high-speed train to Huangshan North Station (from Shanghai ~3h, from Hangzhou ~1.5h). From the station, bus #21 goes to Tunxi (40 min, 5 RMB). Check into your hotel. At 5 p.m., wander to Tunxi Old Street. Have dinner at Zhenzhong Food House. Try the stinky tofu. Walk the entire street — it lights up after dusk.
Day 2: Huangshan Mountain
6:00 a.m. – Didi to Tangkou (1h, ~120 RMB). 7:00 a.m. – Arrive at North Gate (to avoid crowds). 7:30 a.m. – Cable car up. Hike: Cloud Dispelling Pavilion → Bright Summit → Begin to Believe Peak. Lunch: bring your own snacks (mountain food is bad and expensive). 3:00 p.m. – Descend via Yungu cable car (shorter queue at this time). 5:00 p.m. – Bus back to Tunxi. Dinner at local noodle shop.
Day 3: Hongcun Village
9:00 a.m. – Bus from Tunxi to Hongcun (1h, 25 RMB). Explore the village until 1 p.m. Have lunch at a village courtyard restaurant (try bamboo shoots). 2:30 p.m. – Optional: Bus to Xidi if you’re fast (20 min). Or return to Tunxi for souvenir shopping. 6:00 p.m. – Head to Huangshan North Station.
Mike Sun
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