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Dr. Xue Zhao
Why Most Tourists Miss the Best of Anshun
I've lost count of how many times I've seen travelers rush straight to Huangguoshu Waterfall, snap a few selfies, and leave Anshun thinking they've seen it all. That's like going to Italy and only visiting the Leaning Tower. Anshun is a city in Guizhou province that packs serious punch: a massive waterfall, a wild cave system, and fortress villages built by Ming Dynasty soldiers. The trick is knowing how to see them without getting stuck in tourist traps. Here's what I've learned after bringing dozens of groups through this area.
Must-See Natural Wonders
Huangguoshu Waterfall: Timing is Everything
Yes, it's the biggest waterfall in Asia. But the crowds can kill the magic. Go at 8:00 AM sharp – the park opens at 7:30, but tour buses start rolling in around 9. I always tell my groups to enter through the Main Entrance and head straight to the Waterfall Observation Deck. The walk from the entrance takes 15 minutes. Avoid the elevator (it costs extra and saves only 5 minutes).
Ticket details: Adult 160 RMB, children (1.2-1.4m) 80 RMB, seniors over 60 half price. Book at least one day in advance on the official WeChat mini-program “黄果树景区”. Walk-up tickets are rarely available in peak season (May-Oct).
Address: Huangguoshu Town, Zhenning County, Anshun (about 45km west of Anshun city center). Getting there: From Anshun West Bus Station, take the direct bus to Huangguoshu (runs every 20 min, 1 hour, 22 RMB). Get off at the main entrance. Or take a Didi (about 100-120 RMB).
Best time to visit: July-October for peak water flow. But note: weekends are insane. If you can only go on a weekend, arrive by 7:30 AM. The park closes at 18:00 (last entry 17:00). You'll need 3-4 hours to see the main waterfall plus the smaller ones in the scenic area.
Longgong Cave: A Boat Ride Through a Subterranean World
Longgong (Dragon Palace) is less famous than Huangguoshu but honestly more fun. You take a boat through a series of limestone caves filled with stalactites and underground rivers. It's like being in a fantasy movie. The cave is cool (around 18°C) even in summer, so bring a light jacket.
Tickets: 150 RMB adult, includes boat ride. Children 1.2-1.4m 75 RMB. You can buy at the gate but booking on WeChat “龙宫景区” is safer. Open 8:00-17:30.
Getting there: From Anshun East Bus Station, take bus to Longgong (direct, 40 min, 15 RMB). Or hire a taxi for about 80 RMB one-way.
My personal walkthrough: Enter the park, walk 10 minutes to the boat boarding area. The boat ride lasts about 30 minutes. Then you can explore the dry cave section on foot (another 30 min). Don't miss the waterfall inside the cave – it's surprisingly loud. Watch your head – low stalactites. The boat guide will point them out but I've seen people bump anyway.
Dive into Tunpu Culture: Anshun's Unique Heritage
Most tourists skip this. Big mistake. The Tunpu are villages founded by Ming Dynasty soldiers sent to guard the southwestern frontier. Their descendants still wear traditional blue clothing and live in stone fortresses. It feels like stepping into a living museum.
Tianlong Tunpu Village
About 30km east of Anshun city, Tianlong is the most accessible. Entry fee: 60 RMB. The village is small – you can walk through in 1.5 hours. Inside, you'll see women doing embroidery, old stone houses, and a small museum about the Ming military. I recommend hiring a local guide (50 RMB) for 30 minutes – they show you hidden alleys that most tourists miss.
Transport: From Anshun Bus Station, take bus to Tianlong (every hour, 1 hour, 12 RMB). Get off at the village entrance.
The Batik Experience
If you want hands-on, head to Xiaotun Village. There's a cooperative where local women teach batik (wax-resist dyeing). Cost: 80 RMB per person for a small scarf. It takes about 1.5 hours. No English instructions, but the ladies are patient and use gestures. I took a family from Texas here last year, they loved it. Address: Xiaotun Village, Xixiu District. Take bus #16 from Anshun city center to the end, then walk 10 minutes. Or Didi (30 RMB).
Where to Eat: Street Food & Local Specialties
Anshun food is spicy and bold. Don't miss these:
Huajiang Dog Meat – controversial but traditional. If you're game, try it at Old Huajiang Dog Meat Restaurant, 56 Zhonghua South Road, Anshun. Price: around 60-80 RMB per person. Spicy stew. Note: Not for the faint of heart. They also have non-dog options.
Anshun Rice Noodles – my go-to breakfast. Head to Laozhong Rice Noodle Shop, 112 West Street. 8 RMB for a bowl. Topped with minced pork, peanuts, pickled vegetables. They open 6:30 AM-2 PM only. Cash only (Chinese mobile pay works, but they don't accept international cards).
Local Snack: Fatty Rice with Cured Meat – sold at street stalls near the Confucius Temple. 10 RMB. Glutinous rice mixed with smoked pork belly and chili. Perfect for a quick lunch.
Where to Stay: Accommodation for All Budgets
| Hotel Name | Address | Price (RMB/night) | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anshun Plaza Hotel | 66 Zhonghua Road, Xixiu District | 300-500 (peak: 500-700) | Central location, English-speaking front desk, stable Wi-Fi, elevator | Breakfair quality average, rooms a bit dated |
| Huangguoshu Resort Hotel | Next to Huangguoshu Scenic Area entrance | 600-1200 (peak: 1200-2000) | Closest to waterfall, nice views, pool | Expensive, very touristy, dining options limited |
| Anshun Youth Hostel | 15 Qinglong Lane, Xixiu | 80-150 (dorm: 50) | Cheap, friendly staff, luggage storage, free maps | No elevator, some rooms can be noisy |
My pick: For most travelers, the Anshun Plaza Hotel is best – close to the bus station, easy to get to both Huangguoshu and Longgong by public transport. If you're on a budget, the hostel has a great community vibe and they organize group trips.
Sample 24-Hour Itinerary for Anshun
This assumes you arrive early morning and want to see the highlights without rushing.
- 7:00 AM – Grab a bowl of Anshun rice noodles at Laozhong (taxi from hotel, 10 min).
- 8:00 AM – Head to Huangguoshu Waterfall (take bus from West Station, 1 hour). Arrive by 9:00.
- 9:00 AM – 12:30 PM – Explore Huangguoshu. Go first to the main waterfall, then Water Curtain Cave, then walk downstream to the smaller Doupotang Waterfall. Avoid the elevator.
- 12:30 PM – 1:30 PM – Lunch at a restaurant near the park exit (try the local fish dish, at 60 RMB).
- 1:30 PM – 2:30 PM – Take bus back to Anshun (1 hour). Rest at hotel.
- 3:00 PM – 5:00 PM – Visit Tianlong Tunpu Village (taxi 40 min). Walk around, see the embroidery, maybe buy batik.
- 5:30 PM – 7:00 PM – Dinner at a street food market: try fatty rice and grilled fish near the Confucius Temple.
- 7:30 PM – Return to hotel, pack for next day's Longgong Cave if you have an extra day.
Weather backup: If it's raining heavily, swap Huangguoshu for Longgong Cave (underground, still good). The cave stays dry.
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