Wei Zhang
Why Winter Actually Rocks in Anshun
The crowd math
Most international tourists pin Guizhou for late spring or autumn. That's exactly why winter is a secret hack. The average daily visitor count at Huangguoshu drops by 60% compared to October. You'll basically have the boardwalk to yourself.
Silky ice and mist
Temperatures hover around 3–8°C. The water explodes into giant mist clouds that freeze on the surrounding plants when it's really cold. It's eerie, beautiful, and completely different from the summer photos.
But pack smart (your guide will fix you up)
Winter in Anshun is damp, not freezing. Bring a windproof jacket, a rain poncho (you'll get soaked near the waterfall), and traction shoes. I also bring disposable hand warmers—they're 2 RMB each at local convenience stores.
How Do You Get Around Without Losing Your Mind?
Your GPS is lying
Google Maps is hopeless in Guizhou. Download Apple Maps or the international version of AMap (高德地图) before you arrive. I know, the Chinese app looks daunting, but the English interface works offline for walking.
The train isn't a train station—it's a pit stop
Take the high-speed train from Guiyang North to Anshun West—it's about 35 minutes. From Anshun West, there's a dedicated tourist bus to Huangguoshu every 30 minutes. The ride takes 40–50 minutes depending on traffic. A taxi sets you back 120–150 RMB. Use the 'Didi' ride-hailing app—it works in China by just linking your passport number.
What about cash?
Most scenic-area restaurants and souvenir stalls only take mobile payments. Alipay and WeChat Pay are the norm. If you've linked an international card, you're golden. Cash is still accepted at major ticket offices and hotels, but change is a hassle. I always tell my clients to carry 300 RMB in small bills just in case.
| Transport | Cost | Time | When to Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| High-speed rail from Guiyang North to Anshun West | 45 RMB (second class) | 35 min | From airport, take subway to Guiyang North |
| Tourist bus from Anshun West to Huangguoshu | 20 RMB | 50 min | Every 30 min from the station's east square |
| Didi / Taxi | 130 RMB | 40 min | Morning departure (beat the rush) or group of 3+ |
| Scenic area internal shuttle | 50 RMB per person | Loop stops | After entering the park (not included in ticket) |
Insider Advice: Always book the first train out of Guiyang. It arrives at Anshun West before 7:30, letting you hop on the first tourist bus to the waterfall. You’ll be at the entrance before gates open—and that’s when you get the iconic shots with no one in the frame.
What’s the Perfect Day-by-Day Anshun Winter Itinerary?
Day 1: Land, eat, and reset
Arrive at Longdongbao Airport (KWE) in Guiyang. Take the rail link to Guiyang North Station, then a high-speed train to Anshun West. Check into your hotel near Tufei Street, Anshun's old quarter.
Evening: hit the night market at Tufei Street. My ritual is grabbing a steaming bowl of 'Sour Soup Pork' (酸汤猪脚) at a little place called 'Lu Zhou'—it's the one with faded red tables, always bustling by 6pm. The broth is tart, spicy, and warms your bones. Wash it down with a bowl of 'Wuji' noodles (a local wheat noodle with a spicy chili oil).
Day 2: The big Waterfall Day
Start at Huangguoshu Scenic Area, about 40 minutes from Anshun city. Buy tickets on the official WeChat mini-program (scan the QR code at the entrance) or via Trip.com. You MUST bring your passport because they will scan it to enter.
Timeline I use: 8:00am depart, 8:40 arrive, 9:00 first shuttle to the waterfall. You'll beat 90% of the tour groups. The first viewpoint is at the midway observation deck—rain poncho on! The spray is violent, even in winter. By 10:30, the crowds start thickening. That's when I take my clients to the less-visited Tianxingqiao section (stone forest and ancient roots) before it turns into a conga line.
Lunch: inside the scenic area, there are 'sour soup fish' restaurants by the shuttle stop. I always skip those—they're overpriced and blandal. Instead, I pack a few steamed buns and dried beef from the city, and snack on the move.
Afternoon: If the weather holds, take the cable car at the uppermost section for panoramic views. If the drizzle kicks in, switch to Longgong Cave (Dragon Palace) 20 minutes away. It's a limestone cave with a boat ride through underground lakes—it's 15°C all year, so it's a delightful break.
Wrap up around 5pm. Take the tourist bus back to Anshun. For dinner, head to 'Sanya East Street' and try 'Guizhou-style hotpot'—it's a cross between spicy boiled beef and a Sichuan hotpot.
Day 3: Time-stretched or add Tunpu
If you have a half-day, visit a Tunpu village, a unique Ming dynasty Han Chinese settlement with stone walls and turrets. The most tourist-friendly one is 'Baojia Tunpu' (鲍家屯). It's 20 km from Anshun—around 30 minutes by Didi. Entry is free but they ask for a small donation (about 10 RMB). The village is a labyrinth; the local women still wear the traditional 'Fenghuang' headwrap. Don't miss the 'silk-threaded fan' performances if you're there on a weekend.
If you've got the full day, expand your Huangguoshu visit to include the 'Doupotang' and 'Tianxingqiao' section. But honestly, after the main waterfall, the other two bring a distinct thrill—especially the narrow boardwalk hugging a rushing river.
Weather plan B: If it's raining hard, skip everything and go to the Anshun Folklore Museum (安顺民俗博物馆) in the city—it's free and gives you excellent context about the Tunpu culture.
What Should I Eat in Anshun in Winter?
The must-try street snacks
Anshun food is a spicy, sour, and oily punch. My can't-miss list: 'Old Plain Chicken' (老酸鸡) at a spot next to the south gate of the Confucian Temple—it's a whole chicken simmered in a sour broth; 'Yellow Mountain tofu pudding' (黄水豆腐) topped with chili; and a bowl of 'grass jelly' (凉粉) on every corner—even in winter locals eat it, because it's served hot.
My favourite restaurant for a sit-down meal
When I'm not wrangling 15 tourists through a tricky schedule, I treat myself to 'Anshun Court Restaurant' (安顺府) on Xixiu Lane. It's a modest place but the 'sour soup fish' (酸汤鱼) is legendary—you'll taste the fruity tang of wild tomatoes in the broth. Order the 'huangkele' (a kind of smoked fish) as a starter. Two people, three dishes, and drinks land around 120 RMB. And guess what? They have an English menu with pictures.
Where to Stay in Anshun Without Regrets
Weight your choices based on your itinerary focus. If you're going straight to Huangguoshu, consider staying in the 'Huangguoshu Town' itself—it's a tourist development zone with a handful of hotels. But for city vibes and easier access to the old street, stay near Tufei Street.
| Hotel Name | Distance to Tufei Street | Price Range (Winter) | Best For | Wi-Fi/English | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anshun Grand Hotel | 5 min walk | 350–550 RMB/night | Business, families | Strong, English at front desk | Old but reliable, 24h hot water |
| Muling International Hostel | 10 min walk | 120–180 RMB/bed | Backpackers, solo | Good, basic English | Cozy, free breakfast, luggage storage |
| Huangguoshu Town B&B (e.g., 'Waterfall Cloud') | N/A (at scenic area) | 300–500 RMB/night | Early birds to the waterfall | Wi-Fi okay, limited English | Wakes you up with a view—but book early as it's small |
Pro Tip: Book at least two nights in Anshun for the itinerary I've laid out. Most hotels on Tufei Street have an annoying staircase with no elevator. Always request a lower floor when you book—it matters in winter when you're hauling a suitcase.
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