Wei Zhang
What's Inside?
I've been guiding foreign travelers through Yunnan for over a decade. And every time I bring a group to Xizhou, the same thing happens: they show up expecting another Lijiang — crowded, loud, and full of souvenir shops. Then they walk into the quiet alleyways, smell the sizzling baba bread, and their jaws drop. So let me save you the guesswork. Here's exactly how to make the most of this underrated gem.
What Makes Xizhou Special?
Xizhou sits about 20 km north of Dali Old Town. It's smaller, calmer, and way more authentic. The town is famous for its well-preserved Bai architecture — white walls, grey tiles, and intricate door carvings. Unlike Dali's tourist-packed streets, Xizhou feels like a living town where locals still dry corn on their rooftops. You'll find no entrance gate charging a fee; the whole town is open. But some of the historic residences (like Yan's Compound) do charge a small ticket.
Heads-up: Most guides tell you to spend 2 hours here. That's a joke. Between the food, the weaving workshops, and just wandering, you'll want at least half a day. I've seen people stay till sunset and still miss the good spots.
How to Get to Xizhou Ancient Town
Getting here is straightforward, but the wrong choice can cost you time.
| Option | Details | Cost (CNY) | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| From Dali Old Town by bus | Catch bus #4 from the main gate (near the South Gate). Get off at Xizhou Stop. Walk 5 min east. | 8 | 40–50 min |
| Taxi / DiDi from Dali | Easier but can be tricky at peak times. Ask driver to drop you at Sifang Street. | 60–80 | 30 min |
| From Dali Railway Station | Take bus #8 to Dali Old Town, then switch. Or directly DiDi (about 120–150 yuan). | 120–150 | 1 hr |
Here's the catch: The public bus is crowded between 8–9 AM and 5–6 PM. If you're carrying luggage, just book a DiDi. Also, don't take the tuk-tuks near the bus stop — they'll charge you double and take longer.
Best Things to Do in Xizhou
1. Wander Sifang Street
The main square is where everything happens. In the morning, it's a food market; by noon, it turns into a craft bazaar. My favorite: watch the grandmas making tie-dye at the corner stall. They'll let you try for 20 yuan.
2. Visit Yan's Compound
Tickets: 25 yuan per adult (no student discount for foreigners currently). Open 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM. It's a classic Bai 'three-courtyard, four-screen' mansion. Tip: Go early (before 10 AM) to avoid the tour groups. The second courtyard has a well — that's where they filmed a scene from a local TV drama.
3. Cycle to the Erhai Lake Viewpoint
Rent a bike from the town entrance for about 30 yuan/day. Ride east for 15 minutes and you'll hit a wooden platform with an incredible view of Erhai Lake and Cangshan Mountain. Most tourists don't know this spot. I always bring my groups here for the sunset photos.
4. Take a Tie-Dye Workshop
Several shops offer workshops. I recommend Blue Lotus Tie-Dye Studio on the north alley. Price: 100–150 yuan for a small scarf. The owner speaks basic English and will show you the whole process — from knotting to dyeing. It takes about 1 hour. Cash only.
Where to Eat: Local Food Guide
You haven't been to Xizhou until you've had Xizhou Baba . It's a layered flatbread cooked on a charcoal grill. There are two versions: savory (with meat and scallions) and sweet (with brown sugar). Sweet is my pick — it's like a crispy caramelized pancake.
| Restaurant | Specialty | Price Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mrs. Yang's Baba Stall (south end of Sifang St) | Sweet baba, also sells cold rice noodles | 5–10 yuan | Open 7 AM – 6 PM. No English menu, just point. Bring small bills. |
| Xizhou Flavor Restaurant (North Gate area) | Steam pot chicken, puer tea pork | 40–80 yuan per dish | Has picture menu. Gets packed at noon. Try the fried goat cheese — it's addictive. |
| The Bakery (near the old theater) | Western-style pastries, coffee | 20–35 yuan | Good for a break if you need caffeine. Accepts Alipay/WeChat only. |
One thing that drives me crazy: Many stalls don't accept cards, and some restaurants have no English menus. I always tell my groups: download WeChat Pay before coming, or carry 200 yuan in cash. Also, be careful with the spicy pickled chili — it's way hotter than it looks.
Where to Stay in Xizhou
Most visitors do Xizhou as a day trip from Dali. But if you want the real experience, stay overnight. The town after 7 PM is dead quiet — in a good way.
| Hotel | Type | Price (night) | Pros & Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Linden Centre | Boutique heritage hotel | 600–1200 yuan | Stunning Bai architecture, English-speaking staff, great breakfast. No elevator. |
| Blossom Hill Inn | Mid-range guesthouse | 250–400 yuan | Clean rooms, hot water reliable, close to Sifang Street. A bit noisy in the afternoon. |
| Xizhou Youth Hostel | Dorm & private rooms | 60–150 yuan | Budget option, common area with books, but thin walls — bring earplugs. |
I've stayed at Linden Centre three times. The courtyard garden is perfect for reading. Just note: the wooden floors creak like crazy, and Wi-Fi can be slow after 9 PM. If you're a light sleeper, ask for a room facing the inner courtyard, not the street.
Practical Tips for First-Timers
- Money: Cash is king for small purchases. The only ATM is at the post office near the east gate — it often runs out of cash. Bring enough from Dali.
- Language: Only a handful of shopkeepers speak English. Download a translation app (Pleco works offline).
- Best time to visit: March–May and September–November. Summer is rainy and hot; winter mornings are freezing (but clear afternoons). Avoid Chinese national holidays (Oct 1–7, May 1–3) — the town gets uncomfortably packed.
- Photography tip: The best light is 4:00–5:30 PM. The morning sun casts harsh shadows on the white walls. And whatever you do, don't take photos of the old ladies without asking — just smile and point to your camera, most will nod.
- Toilet situation: Public toilets are at the entrance square and near the theater. They're squat-style, no toilet paper. Bring your own tissues.
Real talk from a guide: I made the mistake of taking a group to Yan's Compound at 11 AM last April. We queued 40 minutes, and inside it was so packed I couldn't even show them the carved windows. Go at 8:30 AM sharp. Also, that famous roadside baba stall that everyone raves about? It's good, but the one behind the old theater (no sign, just a grandma with a black apron) is better. Less oil, more layers.
FAQs about Xizhou Ancient Town
This content has been fact-checked to ensure informational precision. Prices and hours may change; always confirm with local sources.
Best decision we made on our Yunnan trip. Xizhou feels authentic and laid-back compared to Dali. Rent a bike and cycle through the surrounding villages and rice paddies—pure bliss. The people are incredibly friendly; a granny invited us into her home to show us her hand-dyed fabrics. Prices are reasonable, the vibe is chill, and you can actually breathe. If you only have time for one ancient town near Dali, make it Xizhou. 5 stars all the way!
Come hungry! Xizhou is a food paradise. The xizhou baba (both sweet and savory) is a game-changer—crispy on the outside, soft inside. We found a tiny noodle shop near the east gate that served the best crossing-the-bridge noodles I've ever had. Also, don't miss the local yogurt with honey and walnuts. The town itself is picturesque, with blooming flowers and old wooden doors. Every corner is Instagram-worthy. I'd go back just for the food!
Absolutely loved it! Xizhou is like stepping back in time. The Bai ethnic architecture is stunning—intricate wood carvings, painted roofs, and tranquil courtyards. I spent hours just wandering through the side lanes and chatting with a local elder who explained the weaving process. The rice fields outside the wall are a photographer's dream at golden hour. If you love genuine cultural heritage without the full-on tourist circus of Dali Old Town, this is a must-visit.
A solid 4-star visit for me. The ancient streets are well-preserved and the Sifangjie square is lovely, especially the morning market with fresh produce. We tried the local baba bread—delicious! However, several small alleys were under construction, and the public restrooms were quite dirty. Also, the ticket for the Yan Family Compound felt a bit steep for what you see. Still, a nice half-day trip from Dali if you manage your expectations.
Honestly, I had higher expectations. The town itself is charming with the old Bai architecture and the rice fields, but it's way too crowded even on a weekday. Every shop is selling the same tourist trinkets, and the food stalls are overpriced for what you get. The horse-drawn carts are more of a nuisance than a charm—sounds and smells everywhere. Maybe go early morning or late afternoon, but I wouldn't plan a full day around it.