How to Visit Xizhou Ancient Town: Beat the Crowds & Save Money

I've guided over 200 groups through Dali. And every time I suggest Xizhou Ancient Town, someone asks: “Is it just another Dali Old Town copy?” No. It's quieter, more authentic, and—honestly—more beautiful. But only if you know how to visit it right.

Here is the catch: most online guides tell you to take a bus from Dali and spend 2 hours there. That's a mistake. You'll end up stuck in the main street gridlocked with selfie sticks. I'll show you how to actually enjoy Xizhou—without the crowds, without overpaying, and without the WeChat payment headaches.

Why Xizhou Matters (and Why Most Tours Skip It)

Xizhou is not a theme park. It's a living Bai ethnic town with well-preserved courtyard houses from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The town is famous for its tie-dye (扎染) and Xizhou baba (破酥粑粑). But the real magic? The narrow alleys where locals hang laundry and old men play chess. I've watched the same group of grandpas play chess in the same spot for four years. That's the kind of place this is.

Getting There: Bus, Bike, or Didi?

Xizhou is about 18 km north of Dali Old Town. Here are your options, ranked by my personal preference.

Option 1: Didi (My Go-To for First-Timers)

Open Didi (or Alipay's ride-hailing). Destination: “Xizhou Ancient Town”. Cost: around 35-50 RMB from Dali Old Town (tip: avoid Didi during 8-9 AM as drivers surge). I always tell my clients: set the drop-off point to the East Gate (东门) – that's the less touristy entrance. The main gate (South Gate) is where all the tour buses park, and the ticket-check can be slow.

Option 2: Bus from Dali (Cheapest but Slow)

Take bus No. 4 from Dali Old Town (stop: “Dali Ancient City Gate”) to “Xizhou”. It costs 3 RMB. But here's the thing: the bus stops at the main road, not inside the town. You'll walk about 10 minutes to the South Gate. And the bus is often packed – I've seen tourists with big suitcases struggling. Unless you're on a shoestring budget, skip it.

Option 3: E-Bike (For Adventurers)

Rent an e-bike from Dali (about 50-80 RMB/day). The ride along Erhai Lake is gorgeous, but it's about an hour each way. Warning: Police sometimes check for driver's licenses at intersections. A few of my clients got fined 50 RMB for not having one. Stick to the small roads near the lake.

Tickets & Opening Hours (Don't Get Scammed)

The official ticket for Xizhou Ancient Town is free – yes, entering the town itself costs nothing. But there are 5 specific courtyard houses that require a combined ticket. Here's the breakdown:

Where to buy? Scan the QR code at the South Gate ticket booth, or book via Trip.com (search “Xizhou Ancient Town”). You'll need to show your passport at the window. Heads up: international credit cards rarely work at the booth. Bring WeChat Pay or cash.

Best Time to Visit – When I Take My Own Guests

Most tourist groups arrive between 10 AM and 2 PM. That's when the main street is a nightmare. I always bring my guests at 8:30 AM – the town is still waking up, the light is soft for photos, and the baba sellers are just firing up their ovens. Alternatively, after 4 PM is also good: the day-trippers leave, and the golden hour hits the white walls beautifully.

My Favorite Walking Route (Avoid the Souvenir Traps)

Don't follow the main street blindly. Here's the route I've refined over 50 visits:

1. Start at East Gate – quiet, few vendors.
2. Walk north along the alley parallel to the main street – you'll see real life: women washing vegetables, kids playing.
3. Turn left at the old well – there's a small temple (Zhao's Temple) that almost no tourists visit. Free entry.
4. Cut back to the main street near the Post Office building – grab a baba at the famous Xizhou Baba King (破酥粑粑王) – the one with the yellow sign, not the red one.
5. Visit Yan's Compound (严家大院) – the courtyard with the most intricate woodcarvings. Spend 20 minutes there.
6. Exit from the back door of Yan's Compound – you'll land on a peaceful lane. Follow it to the Erhai Lake viewing platform (it's a tiny lookout, almost hidden).

Where to Eat – Real Bai Food, Not Tourist Slop

Skip the restaurants on the main drag with English menus and rows of pre-cooked dishes. The real stuff is in the alleys.

Where to Stay (If You Want to Overnight)

Most people day-trip, but staying overnight gives you a magical evening when the town empties out. Here are two picks:

Luxury Option: Xizhou Laolin Hotel (喜洲老林家)

• Address: Inside the town near the East Gate
• Price: 400-800 RMB/night (off-season vs peak)
• Features: Traditional Bai courtyard, stable WiFi, English-speaking front desk (limited).
• Drawback: No elevator – rooms on upper floor require stairs.

Budget Option: Dali Erhai Lake Hostel (Dali Erhai 青年旅舍)

• Address: On the main road, 5 min walk to South Gate
• Price: 80-150 RMB/night (dorm or private)
• Features: Free luggage storage, laundry service, rooftop with lake view.
• Note: Front desk speaks basic English. Bring earplugs – the street can be noisy in the morning.

FAQ – Stuff Most Guides Won't Tell You

One last thing – the restroom situation. The public toilet near the main square is usually clean but has a queue of 10+ women. I tell my female guests to use the toilet at Yan's Compound (free with ticket).

Verified and fact-checked by the editorial team. This content has been fact-checked to ensure informational precision.