Jian Zhao
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Ever been stuck at a ticket booth unable to pay because your international credit card failed? That happened to me on my third trip to Xining. — Not anymore. After 15 years guiding groups through the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, I’ve learned exactly how to dodge the digital payment trap and enjoy Xining without stress. Read on for the real deal.
Why Visit Xining?
Xining is the gateway to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, a city where Tibetan, Hui, and Han cultures collide. Most travelers use it as a launchpad for Qinghai Lake or the railway to Lhasa. But the city itself holds deep religious history, vibrant bazaars, and a food scene that punches above its weight. I’ve brought dozens of groups here, and the ones who stay an extra day always thank me. Xining isn’t a stopover—it’s a destination.
Best Time to Visit Xining
Summer (June to August) is peak season: warm days, cool nights, and lush landscapes. Temperatures sit around 15–25°C (59–77°F). But here’s the catch—July and August bring heavy crowds and higher prices for flights and hotels. I always recommend late May or early September. The weather is still pleasant, and you’ll have the temples almost to yourself. Winters are brutal (below -10°C), but if you're after snow-covered monasteries and fewer tourists, December is surprisingly serene. Just pack thermal layers.
How to Get to Xining
By Air: Xining Caojiapu International Airport (XNN) has direct flights from Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, and Xi’an. From the airport, take Airport Bus Line 1 to the city center (20 CNY, about 45 minutes). Taxis cost around 80–100 CNY—negotiate before hopping in.
By Train: High-speed trains from Xining to Lanzhou take just 1 hour (58 CNY second class). There’s also a direct sleeper train from Beijing (about 22 hours, 550 CNY soft sleeper). Book tickets via Trip.com or the official 12306 site. Note: the station has two ticket halls—east for high-speed, west for conventional. Don’t queue in the wrong one.
By Bus: Long-distance buses connect Xining to Golmud, Yushu, and Xiahe. The bus station is west of the city center. Expect bumpy rides but epic views.
Top Attractions You Can't Miss
Ta'er Monastery (Kumbum)
Located 25 km southwest of Xining, this Tibetan Buddhist monastery is a masterpiece of butter sculpture and colorful murals. Ticket: 80 CNY (adult), free for children under 1.2m. You must pre-book via WeChat mini-program “Ta'er Monastery” (Chinese only—ask your hotel to help). Address: Jinping Street, Huangzhong County. Opening hours: 8:00–17:00 (last entry 16:30). Getting there: Take bus 909 from Xining's central bus station (5 CNY, 40 minutes). Get off at “Ta'er Monastery” stop. The walk from the stop to the main gate is about 10 minutes—follow the prayer flags. Best time to visit: Go at 8:00 sharp to avoid tour groups. The morning light on the golden roofs is stunning. My tip: Don’t miss the butter sculptures in the Great Hall—they melt if you breathe too close, so photos are prohibited. Also, the toilet near the ticket office is always crowded. Use the one at the bus station beforehand.
Qinghai Lake
China’s largest saltwater lake sits about 150 km west of Xining. A day trip is doable but rushed. I prefer the two-day loop: bike or drive around the lake, stopping at the charming town of Heimahe for sunrise. Ticket: Main entrance (Erlangjian) costs 90 CNY. But skip it—I take my groups to the free sections near Jiangxigou or the Black Horse River area. Same lake, no crowds. Getting there: From Xining, take a bus to the lake (60 CNY, 2.5 hours) from the Xining Bus Station. Or rent a private car for 400–500 CNY per day. Best season: July sees massive rape flower fields, but also peak crowds. Late June is a sweet spot. Warning: Altitude sickness hits many first-timers here (3,200m). Bring Diamox and plenty of water. I’ve seen people faint from walking too fast—take it slow.
Dongguan Mosque
One of China’s largest mosques, blending Chinese pavilion architecture with Islamic minarets. It’s free to enter. Address: Dongguan Avenue, Chengzhong District. Opening hours: 6:00–22:00, but non-Muslim visitors should avoid Friday noon prayers. Getting there: Take bus 1 or 22 to “Dongguan Mosque” stop. Women need a headscarf to enter the main hall (available at the door for free). Pro tip: Visit around 17:00 when the courtyard is quiet and the light is warm. Climb the minaret for a panoramic view of the old city.
Local Foods You Must Try
Xining’s food is a fusion of Hui Muslim and Tibetan flavors. Here are my go-to dishes and where to find them.
| Dish | Description | Recommended Restaurant | Price | Address |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hand-Grab Lamb (Shouzhua Yangrou) | Boiled lamb ribs, tender and fatty, eaten with cumin and dipping sauce | Yabuli Restaurant | 60–80 CNY per portion | 54 Minsheng Street, Chengdong |
| Braised Beef Noodle (Xining-style Lanzhou Lamian) | Hand-pulled noodles in rich beef broth, with chunks of meat | Malati Noodle House | 18 CNY per bowl | 28 Wusi Street, Chengzhong |
| Tibetan Yogurt (Suan Nai) | Thick, tangy, and topped with raisins or honey | Little Tibet Café | 15 CNY | 12 South Avenue, near the mosque |
| Youxiang (Fried Savory Twist) | Crispy dough rings often eaten for breakfast | Street stalls on Dongguan Avenue (open 6–10am) | 3 CNY each | Various |
I always tell my clients: avoid restaurants that have English menus with photos—those are tourist traps. Instead, join the locals at Yabuli. The lamb there is grilled over charcoal, not boiled, and the cumin blend is secret. They don't take credit cards, so bring cash or use Alipay (have your hotel set it up before you go).
Where to Stay in Xining
Xining has good accommodation options, but location matters. Here’s my breakdown:
| Hotel | Area | Price (per night) | Best For | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Empark Grand | City Center (Chengzhong) | 500–800 CNY | Business travelers, families | Has a heat lamp in the bathroom; staff speaks basic English |
| Renaissance Xining | Haihu New District | 300–500 CNY | Couples, moderate budget | Close to Ta'er Monastery shuttle bus; Wi-Fi stable |
| Zhongfa Hostel | Near Dongguan Mosque | 80–150 CNY (dorm/private) | Budget backpackers | No elevator; luggage storage available; courtyard with hammocks |
My pro tip: Book through Trip.com or C-trip (Chinese version) for best rates. Most hotels require a 200–500 CNY deposit in cash—keep some on hand. The Empark Grand has solid soundproofing, but the Renaissance has a better breakfast spread with halal and Tibetan options. For solo travelers, Zhongfa Hostel organizes nightly beer runs and is a great spot to meet other travelers.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Here’s a realistic plan I’ve used with dozens of groups. Adjust based on your pace.
Day 1: City Core & Culture
8:30 – Start at Dongguan Mosque (free entry, 45 min). Grab a youxiang from the street stall outside (3 CNY).
10:00 – Walk to Xining Museum (10 min walk, free but bring passport). Focus on the Tibetan artifacts. Allow 1.5 hours.
12:30 – Lunch at Yabuli Restaurant (hand-grab lamb, 70 CNY).
14:00 – Taxi to Beishan Temple (40 CNY, 15 min ride). This cliffside temple has hidden monks who sometimes offer tea. Stay until sunset (17:30).
19:00 – Dinner at Malati Noodle House (18 CNY).
Day 2: Ta'er Monastery & Qinghai Lake (intensive)
7:00 – Take bus 909 to Ta'er Monastery (arrive 8:00 before crowds). Spend 2.5 hours.
11:00 – Back to Xining, then join a shared minivan to Qinghai Lake (250 CNY per person, departs from bus station at 12:00). Arrive at the lake by 14:30.
15:00 – Rent a bicycle near Erlangjian (30 CNY/hour) and cycle the south shore for 2 hours.
18:00 – Watch sunset at Heimahe (bring a jacket, wind is cold). Stay overnight at a lakeside guesthouse (200–300 CNY, book via C-trip).
Day 3: Return & Relax
6:30 – Sunrise at the lake.
9:00 – Return bus to Xining (departs Heimahe at 9:30, 60 CNY). Arrive by 12:00.
13:00 – Lunch at Little Tibet Café (yogurt and tsampa).
14:30 – Last-minute shopping at Shuijing Alley craft market (20 min by taxi from center). Pick up Tibetan prayer flags and cashmere scarves. Bargain hard.
17:00 – Head to the airport or train station.
Alternative Plan B (rainy day): Replace Day 2 with Qinghai Provincial Museum (2 hours) and a cooking class at Mofei Kitchen (200 CNY, learn to make lamb skewers).
Important Travel Tips
1. Cash is still king. Many street vendors, small eateries, and even some monastery ticket windows don’t accept international credit cards. ATMs are plentiful in the city center, but they dispense max 2,000 CNY per transaction. Stock up for the trip to Qinghai Lake.
2. Altitude sickness is real. Xining sits at 2,200m, but Qinghai Lake reaches 3,200m. Acclimatize for a day before heading higher. Symptoms like headaches and dizziness are common—don’t ignore them. I pack portable oxygen cans (sold at pharmacies for 30 CNY) and always remind my clients to avoid alcohol on the first day.
3. WeChat and Alipay are essential. Setup before you arrive. Most hotels and train stations require QR code payments. If you can’t get it working, ask a hotel receptionist to top up your account using their own card—they’re usually willing to help for a small fee.
4. Respect local customs. In mosques, women must cover head and shoulders; in Tibetan monasteries, don’t point fingers at statues—use an open palm. Also, never step on prayer flags on the ground.
5. Book train tickets early. Xining to Lhasa trains are famous for selling out weeks in advance. Reserve on Trip.com at least 10 days before.
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