Wei Zhang
What I Wish I Knew Before Going
The first time I stepped onto Barkhor Street, the air was thick with incense and the murmur of prayers. Pilgrims moving clockwise, spinning prayer wheels, their faces weathered but peaceful. I remember thinking: this is why people come to Lhasa. But is it worth the hype? After taking dozens of groups through this ancient pilgrimage route, I can tell you: yes, but only if you know how to navigate it. Let me save you the mistakes I made.
How to Get to Barkhor Street
Your hotel front desk will likely call it Bakuo Street (the Chinese transliteration).
- From downtown Lhasa: A taxi costs around ¥15-20. Show the driver the Chinese characters: 八廓街. They’ll drop you at the south entrance near the Jokhang Temple square.
- From Potala Palace: It’s a 20-minute walk east. Or take bus #8 or #24, get off at Dazhao Temple stop, and walk 2 minutes north.
- Pro tip: Tell your taxi to stop at the east gate (东门) instead. Fewer crowds, and you enter with the flow of pilgrims.
Best Time to Visit to Avoid Crowds
Here is the catch: most travel blogs tell you to go early. But early here means 7:00 AM, when the street is already buzzing with locals. The real trick? 9:00 AM to 10:30 AM — the first wave of pilgrims has finished, but tour buses haven’t arrived yet.
Avoid: 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM. Sun is brutal, and the narrow alley gets jammed. I’ve seen tourists get claustrophobic. If you must go midday, stick to the shaded side near Jokhang Temple.
For photographers, 4:30 PM to sunset gives you golden light on the white walls. But watch out — after 6 PM, locals flood back for evening prayers. It’s beautiful but chaotic.
Rules & Rituals You Must Know
Yes, navigating this place is like stepping into a living ritual. Break the rules, and locals will politely (or not so politely) correct you.
- Walk clockwise only. Always move in the same direction as the pilgrims. If you walk against the flow, you’ll get bumped and glared at.
- Don’t point your feet at the Jokhang Temple. When sitting, don’t stretch your legs toward the shrine. It’s considered disrespectful.
- Photography: You can take pictures of the street and crowd, but avoid close-ups of pilgrims without asking. Inside Jokhang Temple, no photos allowed.
- Touch the prayer wheels gently. Spin them clockwise with your right hand. Don’t use your left hand — that's considered unclean.
What to Do on Barkhor Street
Walk the Kora (Pilgrimage Circuit)
The full loop around Jokhang Temple takes about 30-40 minutes at a leisurely pace. I always tell my clients: start at the south entrance, merge into the crowd, and let the stream carry you. You’ll pass countless stalls selling prayer flags, butter lamps, and prayer beads. Don’t stop every two seconds — pick a few spots.
Visit the Jokhang Temple
Right off Barkhor Street, this is Tibet’s holiest temple. Entry is ¥85, but you must book via WeChat mini-program “大昭寺门票预约” at least a day in advance. No English interface — ask your hotel to help. Opening hours: 9:00 AM–6:00 PM (last entry 5:30 PM). Expect queues of 20-40 minutes even with a reservation.
Climb the Roof of Jokhang Temple
Most tourists miss this. For an extra ¥10, you can go to the rooftop terrace. The view of Barkhor Street with the Potala in the background is iconic. Also, it’s much less crowded than the ground level. Best time: early morning before the tour groups arrive.
Where to Eat & Drink
You’ll get thirsty walking around. Here are my go-to spots:
| Place | Address (in Chinese) | Specialty | Price | Tips |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Guangming Gangjiong Sweet Tea House | 八廓街东孜苏路65号 | Sweet butter tea, momos (dumplings) | ¥2 per cup of tea, ¥10 for momos | Pay cash only (small bills). Go before 10 AM to avoid the lunch rush. No English menu — point at what others are having. |
| Ma Tofu Noodle Shop | 八廓街北段37号 | Tibetan noodle soup (thukpa), spicy beef | ¥15-25 | Packed with locals. The broth is rich and perfect for cold days. Tell the cook “no MSG” if you prefer. |
| Lhasa Kitchen (rooftop) | 八廓街绕赛巷5号 (up to 4th floor) | Yak burger, Tibetan pizza | ¥40-70 | Great views of the street. Order the yak burger — it’s surprisingly juicy. Cards accepted. |
Shopping: Worth It or Not?
Barkhor Street is famous for its markets. But here’s the truth: most items are mass-produced knockoffs targeting tourists. That said, you can find genuine antiques if you know where to look.
What’s worth buying:
- Prayer flags (new, not torn) — ¥5-10 per string. Great souvenirs.
- Tibetan incense — ¥15-30 per box. Stick to shops with strong local clientele.
- Mani stones (carved with mantras) — ¥10-20. Avoid painted ones, they fade quickly.
What to skip: “Old” thangkas, silver jewelry (often nickel), and anything with a crazy discount. Haggling is expected — start at 30% of the asking price. If the seller accepts immediately, you paid too much.
Where to Stay Nearby
I recommend staying within walking distance so you can experience Barkhor Street at dawn and dusk without rushing.
| Hotel | Address | Price Range (per night) | Best For | Pain Points |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lhasa Shangri-La Hotel | 1 Norbulingka Road (10-min walk to Barkhor) | ¥800-1,500 | Luxury, families, couples | WiFi is strong. Some rooms have low oxygen — ask for an oxygen-supplied room in advance. Front desk speaks English. |
| Yak Hotel Lhasa | 14 Linju Road, Chengguan (5-min walk) | ¥300-500 | Budget travelers, backpackers | Bathrooms are shared on some floors. No elevator — request ground floor if stairs are an issue. Great free breakfast. |
| Sandholms Garden Guest House | Inside Mentsikhang Lane (right on Barkhor) | ¥150-300 | Solo travelers, digital nomads | Tiny rooms, thin walls. But you can hear prayer bells from bed. Very local feel. Luggage storage available. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Verified and fact-checked by the editorial team. All prices and hours were personally confirmed during visits in 2024. Tibet travel regulations can change; always check local updates before your trip.
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