Ningxia

Ningxia's eastern Helan Mountain wine country is a revelation. We spent a whole day hopping between wineries, and at one we literally looked out at vine rows backed by purple mountains while tasting a superb Cabernet. The price for the tasting was a fraction of what you'd pay in Napa or Tuscany. We ended the day watching the sun sink into the Yellow River. If you love wine and big landscapes, put Ningxia on your map now.

If you're a food person, don't skip Ningxia. Yinchuan's Muslim quarter is full of tiny places serving the most fragrant lamb noodles and crispy roast buns. I also tried goji berry tea at a family-run shop and ended up chatting for an hour with the owner about local harvests. The beautiful mosque courtyards and warm, laid-back vibe made it feel completely different from the usual tourist trail. I cannot recommend it enough.

Ningxia absolutely surprised me. We rode camels into the Tengger Desert just before sunset, then sandboarded down a massive dune like kids. The sky that night was the clearest I've ever seen in China — the stars felt close enough to touch. Around the campfire, a local made lamb skewers with cumin and hot pepper that were easily the best I've had anywhere. This is the kind of place that rewires your idea of travel.

Solid four stars for Ningxia. The Helan Mountain rock art blew me away, and the vineyards in the eastern foothills are stunning, with tastings that rival much pricier regions back home. The only reason I'm not giving five is that getting from place to place without a rental car is tough, and a few sites had almost no English signage. Still, if you're into culture and wine, it's a great under-the-radar destination.

I wanted to love Ningxia, but I left with mixed feelings. The Yellow River section near Shapotou is genuinely impressive, but the area was way too crowded and the 'desert experience' felt commercial. The Western Xia mausoleums were fascinating, but getting there without a car was a headache, and one of the sites I planned to see was closed for renovation. Food was good, especially the hand-pulled noodles, but I think a long weekend is enough. Maybe my expectations were just too high.

I cycled the wine region around the eastern foot of Helan Mountain – easily one of the best decisions I've ever made. The vineyards are stunning, the wines are world-class (try the Marselan!), and the winemakers are passionate and happy to chat. Also stopped by the Sand Lake – peaceful boat ride through reeds filled with birds. Perfect blend of nature and culture. 11/10.