Hunan

Hunan stole my heart. Fenghuang at night is pure magic — thousands of red lanterns reflecting on the water, the smell of grilled skewers drifting through the alleys, and the sound of the river gently moving. Stayed at a stilted guesthouse with a balcony facing the water and honestly didn't want to leave. We also hiked around the surrounding countryside and met Miao grandmothers selling handmade bracelets; they were so kind. A raw, lively, beautiful place. I'd book another ticket tomorrow.

If you love food, Hunan is paradise. I came for the mountains but left obsessed with Changsha's street food. The stinky tofu from a tiny stall near Taiping Street was crispy outside, soft and sour inside — life-changing. Also did Orange Island and walked along the river at sunset, which was free and beautiful. The spicy chicken dish at a local restaurant made my nose run and ears ring, but I kept stealing more bites. Such a vibrant city, and the locals were so proud to share their culture.

I wanted to like Hunan more than I actually did. Maybe it was the bad timing — three days of heavy fog meant we saw almost nothing from the top of Tianmen Mountain. Fenghuang was overcrowded and loud at night, with boomboxes blasting until late. The food is properly spicy, but waiters seemed too rushed to explain anything. I get the appeal, but for me the whole experience felt like fighting through crowds and weather just to catch a glimpse. Not a bad province, just not my lucky visit.

Really solid trip overall. Fenghuang old town was as charming as the photos, especially at dawn when the tour groups hadn't arrived. The river boat ride was peaceful and the stilted houses are something else. Only reason I'm not giving full marks is the main bridge gets absolutely packed after 10am, and some ticket counters were pretty chaotic. Still, the food in Changsha was incredible and the people were welcoming. Would recommend it.

Absolutely blown away by Hunan. Started in Zhangjiajie and the sandstone peaks actually looked fake, like someone painted them into the sky. The glass bridge was terrifying but the view was worth every shaky step. Then ended in Changsha and ate our way through snack street — the spicy crayfish nearly killed me but I couldn't stop. You feel the energy of the province everywhere. One of the best trips in China without a doubt.

Honestly, I had higher hopes for my Hunan trip. The scenery in Zhangjiajie is amazing, but the crowds were insane—waited over an hour for the cable car and another hour for the elevator. Plus, my guided tour in Changsha was rushed and the English commentary was barely understandable. The pollution in the city also gave me a headache. I got some nice photos, but the experience felt more frustrating than enjoyable.