Fang Wang
What You'll Find Here
Three hours. That’s how long my clients waited in the sun at the South Gate last week. Forget the glossy brochures—if you don't know the exact WeChat mini-program trick, you aren't getting in. I've been guiding Nanjing to Hangzhou trips for over a decade, and every time I see the same mistake: people following outdated advice. Here is exactly how to skip the queues, handle the payment nightmare, and see the real Hangzhou in under two days.
The Fastest Way: Nanjing to Hangzhou by Train
The high-speed train is your only real option. It runs every 20-30 minutes from Nanjing South Railway Station to Hangzhou East Railway Station. The ride takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Tickets cost around 117 RMB (second class) or 198 RMB (first class). I always tell my clients to book on 12306.cn or via Trip.com if they don't have a Chinese ID. Pro tip: Buy your return ticket the moment you arrive in Hangzhou—same-day return tickets often sell out by noon, especially on weekends.
West Lake Without the Crowds: A Local's Route
Everyone goes to the Broken Bridge first. That’s a mistake. I take my groups to the Su Causeway entrance (near Nanping Road) instead. Here’s the deal: rent a bike (20 RMB per hour) and cycle south along the lake. At 7 AM, you’ll have the path almost to yourself. Stop at the Leifeng Pagoda (40 RMB entrance, open 8:00-17:00) but skip the elevator—climb the stairs for a better view.
The Hidden Spots Most Tourists Miss
Heading west from the pagoda, you’ll find a small bamboo grove path that leads to the **Orioles Singing in the Willows** area. It’s not on most maps. I always stop here for a 15-minute break—fewer people, and you can hear actual birds. Further south, the **Huagang Park** (free) has these massive koi fish ponds. Bring some bread crumbs; the fish will splash like crazy.
Beyond the Lake: Must-See Spots in Hangzhou
| Attraction | Ticket Price | Opening Hours | Best Time to Go |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lingyin Temple | 75 RMB (adult), 45 RMB (student) | 7:00-18:00 (summer), 7:30-17:30 (winter) | Arrive by 8:30 to avoid the tour bus crowds |
| Longjing Tea Village | Free (tea tasting extra) | All day | Late morning after the fog lifts |
| Hefang Street | Free | 10:00-22:00 | Evening for the lanterns and street food |
Lingyin Temple is worth it, but the real gem is the **Peak Flying from Afar** (Feilai Feng) rock carvings just behind the temple. Few people go up there. The climb takes 20 minutes, and you’ll see thousand-year-old Buddha carvings against a forest backdrop.
Where to Eat: Real Food, Not Tourist Traps
I’ve eaten at every restaurant near West Lake. Here are the ones I actually go back to.
- Lou Wai Lou (No. 30 Gushan Road, near Solitary Hill) – Their Dongpo pork is legendary, but order the **Song Sao Yu Geng** (fish soup) too. Google Maps rating: 4.4. Expect queues at 12:00 and 18:00. Credit cards accepted.
- Grandma’s Home (multiple locations) – Reliable, cheap, and English menu. I always go for the **chicken with chestnuts** (44 RMB). No international cards—only WeChat Pay or Alipay.
- Tea House near Longjing – The old lady at the end of the lane will let you sit in her garden and drink fresh Longjing tea for 30 RMB. She doesn’t speak English, but just smile and point at the tea leaves.
Where to Stay in Hangzhou
Don’t stay directly on West Lake unless you love noise and high prices. I recommend these two areas:
| Area | Best For | Hotel Suggestion | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hubin Road (near West Lake) | First-time visitors, walking distance to lake | Four Seasons Hangzhou – high-end, great gardens. Or Hangzhou Hubin Hotel for a budget option with decent English. | 400-1500 RMB/night |
| Wulin Square area | Metro access, nightlife, cheaper | Atour Hotel (Wulin Road) – stable Wi-Fi, good soundproofing. Staff speak basic English. | 250-600 RMB/night |
Pro tip: If you're a solo backpacker, the Hangzhou International Youth Hostel (Nanshan Road) has luggage storage and a common room where you can meet other travelers. 90 RMB for a dorm bed.
Sample 2-Day Itinerary Nanjing to Hangzhou
Here’s my go-to plan that I’ve tested with hundreds of clients. It’s flexible—swap days if it rains.
Day 1: Arrival + West Lake + Night Market
- 08:30 – High-speed train from Nanjing South to Hangzhou East. Arrive at 09:45.
- 10:00 – Take Metro Line 1 to Longxiangqiao Station (Exit B). Walk 5 minutes to your hotel. Drop luggage.
- 11:00 – Start West Lake bike ride from Su Causeway. Stop at Leifeng Pagoda, then the bamboo grove. Lunch at Grandma’s Home near Qingchun Road.
- 15:00 – Visit Longjing Tea Village. Take bus 27 from downtown (30 mins). Walk through the terraces.
- 18:30 – Dinner at Lou Wai Lou (reserve ahead or go early). Then walk to Hefang Street night market.
Day 2: Lingyin Temple + Return to Nanjing
- 08:00 – Take bus 7 or taxi to Lingyin Temple (15 mins from city center). Visit temple and Feilai Feng carvings.
- 12:00 – Lunch at a local noodle shop near the temple (try Pian Er Chuan noodles).
- 14:00 – Last-minute shopping at In88 mall (Metro Wulin Square) or souvenir tea from the official Longjing store.
- 16:30 – Head to Hangzhou East Railway Station for a 17:00 train back to Nanjing.
FAQ: Your Questions Answered
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Brilliant planning. We’re a family of four with two teenagers and nobody complained about crowds or boredom. The detour to Qixia Mountain instead of the usual Confucius Temple was a huge hit—we had the maple forest practically to ourselves. In Hangzhou, the boat hire tip to use the lesser-known dock near Maojiabu instead of West Lake saved us an hour of queueing. Even the teenagers said ‘this was actually cool’. Five stars, no notes.
Loved every second. As a solo female traveler, I felt safe and never overwhelmed. The itinerary’s tip to start the Lingyin Temple visit at 6:30 AM was golden—I had the entire main hall to myself for 20 minutes. The little snack recommendations (shengjian bao in Nanjing, the Hangzhou fried tofu stall) were spot-on. I took loads of photos with zero photobombers. If you want a calm, cultural, and truly crowd-free experience between these two cities, this is it.
Mixed feelings. The concept is great but execution was off for us. Day one was fine—Xuanwu Lake was calm and we found a nice local dumpling spot. But day two in Hangzhou felt rushed; the ‘hidden tea trail’ they suggested turned out to be a muddy goat path with no real views, and we ended up wasting an hour getting back. Also the recommended hotel near Nanjing station was underwhelming for the price. It’s okay if you’re on a tight schedule, but I expected more ‘crowd-skipping’ magic. Just alright.
Honestly, this saved our weekend. We were so worried about the May Day crowds but this guide nailed it. The bamboo grove near Nanjing’s Ming Xiaoling wasn’t crowded at all, and the sunrise Longjing tea village in Hangzhou was surreal. The only reason I’m giving 4 stars instead of 5 is that one of the ‘secret’ noodle shops they recommended was already closed when we got there. Still, the overall flow was perfect and we didn’t wait in a single line. Would use again!
This itinerary is a hidden gem! We followed the ‘skip the crowds’ advice and it really worked. The early morning hike up Purple Mountain near Nanjing was stunning—misty, quiet, only a few other people. Then the afternoon tea in a small Huzhou garden felt like a secret escape. By day two in Hangzhou, we avoided West Lake chaos by taking the canal bike path instead. Genuinely felt like we had the whole trip to ourselves. 10/10 would recommend for anyone wanting a peaceful two-day escape.