Yan Zhou
What You'll Find Here
You step out of your hotel, the dry heat fading as the sun dips below the sand dunes. Your stomach growls. You've read about the famous Shazhou Night Market. But here's the thing – most online guides don't tell you which stalls are actually good, or how to avoid paying triple for a skewer. I've been leading tours here for six years, and I've seen it all. So let me save you some trouble.
Shazhou Night Market – Where to Eat & Shop
The market sprawls between Yangguan East Road and Mingshan Road, open from 6 PM to midnight (sometimes later in peak season). It's a sensory overload – smoky grills, sweet apricot tea, vendors calling out. But don't get distracted by the shiny stalls at the entrance. Prices there are at least 50% higher.
My Go-To Stalls
Head to the second parallel alley (the one behind the main row). Look for these:
| Stall Name | Specialty | Price (CNY) | Wait Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Uyghur Family (Alley 2, No.23) | Lamb Skewers with cumin & chili | 10 per skewer | 5-10 min |
| Old Zhang's Hand-Pulled Noodles | Lanzhou La Mian with beef | 15 per bowl | 10 min |
| Apricot Peel Tea Stall (corner of alley) | Cold Xing Pi Cha | 5 per cup | 2 min |
| Grilled Liver Master Chen | Spiced lamb liver skewers | 8 per skewer | 8 min |
| Sweet Wife's Yogurt | Thick local yogurt with honey | 12 per bowl | 5 min |
I always order 10 lamb skewers and share with my group. The Uyghur family doesn't speak much English, but pointing and holding up fingers works. Payment? Cash or WeChat Pay. No credit cards, no Alipay at some stalls. So bring small bills.
Shopping – What to Buy and What to Skip
You'll see piles of fake antique coins, jade pendants, and painted gourds. Most of it is mass-produced. The only thing worth buying is hand-painted sand vials (about 30-50 yuan) – they're made using colored sand from the dunes. I bought one three years ago and it still looks great. Negotiate – start at half the asking price.
Desert Camping – Sleep Under the Milky Way
If you have only one night in Dunhuang, skip a fancy hotel and camp in the Gobi. It's magical. But not all camps are equal. I've tried three.
| Company | Price (per person) | Includes | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dunhuang Star Camp | 280 yuan | BBQ dinner, tent, bonfire, stargazing guide | Clean tents, English-speaking guide | Toilets are basic pit latrines |
| Mingsha Camping | 350 yuan | Same plus camel ride at sunset | Ride included, great photo ops | Food is mediocre |
| Budget Sand Camp | 200 yuan | Basic dinner, shared tent | Cheapest option | No hot water, sleeping bags smell |
I recommend Dunhuang Star Camp. Book through your hotel or on Klook (they have an official page). Pickup is usually around 6 PM from your hotel – the drive takes 20 minutes. Wear long pants and bring a fleece – even in July, the desert temperature drops to 15°C at night. And yes, you'll have to use a squat toilet in the dark. Bring a headlamp.
Evening Shows – Which One Is Worth Your Money
Two big shows compete for your evening: Again Dunhuang (Yòu Jiàn Dūnhuáng) and Dunhuang Shengdian (Dūnhuáng Shèngdiǎn). I've seen both multiple times. Here's my honest take.
Again Dunhuang is a moving theatrical experience – you walk through different sets that recreate the Silk Road era. It's visually stunning, but the standing sections (standard ticket, 298 yuan) can be physically draining. I always recommend the VIP ticket (368 yuan) – you get a seat for the whole show. The show lasts 90 minutes, no intermission. Book via the official WeChat mini-program (search "又见敦煌") or ask your hotel to call. They usually have English options.
Dunhuang Shengdian is a seated song-and-dance performance with colorful costumes. It's more traditional, less avant-garde. Good for families or if you have mobility issues. Price: 238-328 yuan. Located at the Dunhuang Grand Theater.
Night Photography – Best Spots & Timing
Dunhuang transforms under the moonlight. Here are three spots I always take my photo-enthusiast clients.
1. Crescent Moon Spring (Yueyaquan)
The park is open until 10 PM in summer (check the exact time). The spring with the pavilion lit up is iconic. Go at 8:30 PM – the light is perfect. Use a tripod (allowed, but not in the dunes).
2. Danghe River Promenade
This is a free spot along the river west of the city. Bridges and pagodas reflect in the water. Best time: 9 PM. No entrance fee.
3. Night Market Alley
The narrow alleys with red lanterns create a moody atmosphere. Use a wide aperture (f/1.8) to blur the crowds.
One thing: mosquitoes are awful near the river after dark. Bring repellent.
Practical Tips – Money, Transport & More
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Payment | Most night market stalls accept cash only. Some take WeChat Pay. International credit cards are rarely accepted anywhere. Bring enough cash (500 yuan should cover an evening). ATMs are available but often run out of cash on weekends. |
| Transport | Didi (Chinese Uber) is the easiest. Download the app and set language to English. A ride within the city costs about 10-15 yuan. Taxis are also available but rarely speak English. From the city to desert camp: 40 yuan by taxi. |
| Language | Very little English spoken at the market. Download a translation app (Pleco or Google Translate) and learn basic numbers. Pointing works fine. |
| Safety | Dunhuang is very safe at night. The main streets are well-lit. Keep your valuables zipped in crowded areas – pickpocketing is rare but happens. |
| Weather | Evenings can be chilly even in summer. Carry a light jacket or hoodie. Sandstorms are rare but possible – check forecast. |
Honestly the best night I've had in China so far. Started with a dune buggy ride across the sand at dusk – heart-pounding and hilarious. Then we wandered into the night market and shared a giant plate of spicy crayfish and cold beer. The performers on stilts and the fire-breather on the main square were incredible. I even bought a tiny camel keychain from a kid who spoke perfect English. Everything felt lively, safe, and super friendly. Hands down a 5/5 experience.
We visited Shazhou Night Market around 9pm and it was already packed. The food stalls are colorful and the variety is impressive, but I wish there were more English signs or descriptions – I accidentally pointed at something I thought was fried noodles and ended up with a bowl of tripe soup. Not my thing. The grilled fish was fantastic though, and the lady selling handmade clay whistles was super friendly. Overall a fun evening but not as magical as I expected. Solid four stars.
If you're into photography, do not miss the night view from the top of Mingsha Sand Dunes. The stars are unreal – you can see the Milky Way stretching over the crescent moon lake. I joined a small group camping trip that included a bonfire and traditional music; the guide even taught us a few Uyghur dance moves. The whole vibe was peaceful and respectful of the desert. Only downside: the sand gets into everything, but that's part of the charm. Would do it again in a heartbeat.
Dunhuang’s nightlife is unique but not for everyone. We went to a bar near the night market called ‘Silk Road Lounge’ – the live music was decent but the cocktails were way overpriced (60 RMB for a mojito that tasted like syrup). The street food is the real highlight: try the apricot water and the donkey meat rolls, though I found the latter a bit too gamey. The night market itself gets crowded and pushy, which can be a bit overwhelming. Glad I experienced it, but I wouldn't go back a second time.
I spent three nights in Dunhuang and hit the Shazhou Night Market every single evening. The grilled lamb skewers are insanely good – smoky, tender, and seasoned just right. The atmosphere is buzzing with locals and tourists haggling over souvenirs, and I loved watching the noodle-pulling show at one of the open kitchens. If you're into food, this is paradise. Also, the camel ride at sunset was a surreal experience; the dunes turn golden and the silence out there is magical. Absolutely recommend booking a guided night tour of the Mingsha Mountain.