Chen Liu
What's Inside
Three hours. That’s how long my clients waited in the sun at the South Gate of Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum last month. Forget the glossy brochures—if you don’t know the exact WeChat mini-program trick, you aren’t getting in before noon. I’ve been guiding these twin cities for a decade, and the biggest mistake travelers make is trusting generic online advice. Here is exactly how to skip the queues, handle the payment nightmare, and see the real Nanjing and Shanghai in four well-paced days.
Day 1: Nanjing – Ancient Walls & Night Markets
I always start with the Ming City Wall. It’s less crowded than the mausoleum and gives you a fantastic overview. Enter through the Zhonghua Gate (address: No. 1, Zhonghuamen Nei, Qinhuai District; open 8:30–17:00, winter closes 16:30). Ticket: 50 RMB adult, 25 RMB for students with ID. No reservation needed on weekdays, but weekends can be busy. Walk the wall for about 1.5 hours—the best photo spot is the section near the moat, but avoid the noon sun (shadows are harsh).
From there, walk 10 minutes south to Confucius Temple (Fuzi Miao) area. The temple itself costs 30 RMB and has an English audio guide (20 RMB deposit). But honestly, the real draw is the Qinhuai River night scene. Come back after dark for the lanterns and boat ride (80 RMB, 40 minutes). My favorite eats: Lianhu Chinese Restaurant at No. 128 Gongyuan Street—try the salted duck (Nanjing specialty) and the soup dumplings. Cash only for small stalls, but the restaurant accepts AliPay and WeChat Pay. Avoid the riverside shops selling “local snacks” at inflated prices; walk two blocks west to Lao Men Dong for cheaper and tastier options.
| Spot | Time Needed | Ticket (Adult) | Must-Know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ming City Wall (Zhonghua Gate) | 1.5–2 h | 50 RMB | Go before 10 AM; bring water, no shade on wall |
| Confucius Temple | 1 h | 30 RMB | English audio guide available; skip the overpriced tea house |
| Qinhuai River Night Cruise | 40 min | 80 RMB | Board at the dock near Wen Yuan Bridge; last boat at 21:00 |
Day 2: Nanjing Morning + Bullet Train to Shanghai
Start sharp at 8:00 AM—head to Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum. Entrance is free but you must reserve via the WeChat mini-program “中山陵预约” (search in Chinese). If you can’t read Chinese, ask your hotel to book it for you, or use the Trip.com app which has an English interface. Address: 7 Zhongshanling Road, in the Purple Mountain area. Open 8:30–17:00, last entry at 16:00. To avoid the nightmare queue at the main gate, take Didi (ride-hailing) to the north gate (Beimen) on Lingwu Road. You’ll walk up a gentle slope instead of the endless steps, and you enter at the top near the mausoleum hall. The main south entrance has a 30-40 minute wait after 10 AM.
After the mausoleum, walk downhill to the Linggu Temple area (500 m southeast). The pagoda and beamless hall are worth 30 minutes. If you’re hungry, the Purple Mountain area has few good options—I recommend grabbing a quick snack from the kiosk outside the north gate (try the stinky tofu, 10 RMB). Then take Didi to Nanjing Museum (free, reserve via WeChat “南京博物院”). It’s a 15-minute ride. Spend 1.5 hours there; the digital exhibition is incredible.
At 3:00 PM, head to Nanjing South Railway Station for the 16:01 G-bullet train to Shanghai Hongqiao (1 hour 10 minutes, 134 RMB second class). Book your ticket on 12306.cn or Trip.com at least 2 days in advance. At the station, you can pick up food for the train—the convenience stores inside sell bento boxes for 30 RMB. Arrive in Shanghai by 17:30, check into your hotel near People’s Square or The Bund. I recommend Jin Jiang Metropole Hotel on Fuzhou Road (around 600 RMB/ night, free Wi-Fi, English-speaking front desk).
Day 3: Shanghai – Bund to Old City
Wake up early—7:30 AM. Start with a walk along the Bund from Nanjing East Road to the Waibaidu Bridge. Free, always open, but sunrise (around 6:00 in summer, 6:30 in winter) is the most peaceful. After 9 AM the selfie sticks swarm. Then cross the bridge to Lujiazui via the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel (50 RMB, 5 minutes) or take the metro from East Nanjing Road station to Lujiazui (line 2, one stop, 3 RMB). Skip the tunnel—it’s a gimmicky light show. Instead, go up the Shanghai World Financial Center observation deck (100th floor, 180 RMB adult, buy online on Klook for 150 RMB). The glass walkway is terrifying but worth it. Go before 11 AM to avoid midday haze.
For lunch, take metro line 2 to People’s Square station (line 2, one stop). Exit from 11 to reach Yanjian Er Road food alley. My go-to: Jia Jia Tang Bao at 204 Huanghe Road—pork soup dumplings, 12 RMB for 8. They only accept cash and Alipay (no international cards). Wait times are about 15 minutes at noon. After lunch, walk 10 minutes to Yu Garden (address: 218 Anren Street; ticket 40 RMB, open 9:00–16:30). It’s a classic Ming dynasty garden, but the surrounding bazaar is a tourist trap. I’d spend 40 minutes inside the garden and skip the shopping area unless you need cheap souvenirs. For something quieter, the nearby City God Temple is free and has a beautiful incense-filled courtyard.
Evening: Huangpu River cruise from the Bund (120 RMB, 45 minutes, departures every hour until 21:00). Book through the official WeChat mini-program to avoid ticket scalpers. Bring a jacket—river wind is cold even in summer.
| Activity | Cost | Best Time | Pro Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bund walk | Free | Sunrise (6:00–7:30) | Start at Nanjing East Road end |
| SWFC Observation Deck | 180 RMB (online 150) | 10:00–11:00 | Buy online to skip ticket line |
| Yu Garden | 40 RMB | 13:00–14:00 | Go on weekdays only; restrooms cleanest inside garden |
| Huangpu Cruise | 120 RMB | 19:00–20:00 | WeChat miniprogram only; avoid the touts at the dock |
Day 4: Shanghai – Modern & Artsy
If you love art and hipster vibes, spend the morning at M50 Creative Park (50 Moganshan Road, free entry). It’s a converted textile factory with galleries and cafes. Open 10:00–18:00, but some galleries close on Mondays. Take metro line 13 to Jiangning Road station, exit 1, then walk 10 minutes. For lunch, walk to Yongkang Road (about 15 minutes) where you’ll find small bakeries and fusion restaurants. Try Manner Coffee for a flat white (25 RMB) and Uncle No Name for noodle soup (35 RMB).
Afternoon: Shanghai Tower at Lujiazui. You already had a panoramic view from SWFC, so consider Shanghai History Museum (free, near People’s Square) if you want a cultural break. Or, for a unique experience, visit Long Museum West Bund (3398 Longteng Avenue, ticket 100 RMB, closed Mondays). It’s a private contemporary art museum with rotating exhibitions. The building itself is photogenic. Take Didi from M50 (about 25 minutes, 40 RMB).
For your last dinner, I recommend Lost Heaven on Yan'an Road (Yunnan-style fusion, 200-300 RMB per person, reservation recommended). They take international credit cards. End the night with a walk through Xintiandi—a restored shikumen neighborhood buzzing with bars and live music.
Booking Hacks & Payment Nightmares
Here’s the truth: WeChat Pay and Alipay are not easy for tourists to set up without a Chinese bank card. Alternatives: bring a prepaid travel card (like the one from Cardless that works with Alipay), or use Trip.com for all bookings (they accept PayPal and international cards). Many museums now require QR code check-ins, so download WeChat and ask your hotel to link your passport to a temporary mini-program account. It’s a hassle, but once set up, you’re golden. I’ve seen couples waste an hour trying to pay at a street stall—cash is still king for small vendors. ATMs at Bank of China (especially near train stations) accept Visa/Mastercard for cash withdrawals. Withdraw at least 500 RMB upon arrival.
FAQ – Real Answers from a Guide
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