Ling Wu
I’ve led dozens of groups through Haikou’s Qilou Old Street, and I can tell you one thing: the secret isn’t just when to go, but how to read the street like a local. This isn’t your typical tourist strip where everything is staged. Behind the weathered arcades and peeling facades, there’s a living neighborhood that’s been trading for over a century. Let me walk you through exactly how to experience it without falling into the common traps.
How to Get There
By Metro
The easiest way is to take Haikou Metro Line 1 to Donghu Station. Get out from Exit A, and you’ll see the old street directly ahead — literally a two-minute walk. The metro runs from 6:30 to 23:00, and a single ride costs around 2-5 CNY depending on distance. I usually tell my guests to download the Haikou Metro app or use Alipay’s transport function to avoid queuing for tickets.
By Bus
If you’re coming from downtown, buses 1, 2, 8, and 26 all stop at Zhongshan Road stop, right at the edge of the old street. The fare is 1 CNY — have coins ready or use your phone to scan. But honestly, I’d recommend the metro because traffic along the main roads can be unpredictable, especially during rush hour.
By Taxi or Ride-Hailing
From Haikou Meilan International Airport, a taxi takes about 40 minutes and costs roughly 60-80 CNY. Just show the driver “骑楼老街” or the address: 中山路 with Zhongshan Road. DiDi (the local Uber) works well and often cheaper — I usually get a ride for around 50 CNY from the city center. Note: most drivers don’t speak English, so have your destination written in Chinese ready on your phone.
Best Time to Visit
Most guides will tell you to go in the morning. And they’re half right. I’ve brought groups at every hour, and here’s my honest take:
- Early morning (8:00-10:00): The street is quiet, with shop owners opening their shutters. Great for photos without crowds, but many eateries aren’t ready yet. You can watch the city wake up — that’s a special moment.
- Late afternoon (16:00-18:00): This is my personal favorite. The golden light filters through the arcades, and the street comes alive with after-school snacks and evening shoppers. The temperature is also bearable, even in summer.
- Avoid noon (11:00-15:00): Especially from June to September. The tropical sun beats down, and the buildings offer little shade. I’ve seen too many tourists with sunburned necks — don’t be that person. If you’re there at that time, duck into a tea house or an air-conditioned museum.
Also, check the local holiday schedule. Chinese New Year and National Day (October 1-7) turn the street into a human river. Come on a weekday if you can.
What to See and Do
The Architecture: Why It’s Special
Qilou (literally “riding building”) refers to the covered walkways that connect the buildings. This style blends Western colonial elements (arches, pilasters) with traditional Chinese balconies and decorative motifs. As you walk, look up — you’ll see intricate carvings of flowers, animals, and even foreign characters from the early 20th century. Each building tells a story of the overseas Chinese who returned to invest in their hometown.
One particular building I always point out is the Former Residence of the Song Family at No. 78 Zhongshan Road. It’s free to enter and has a small exhibition about the family’s role in Hainan’s history. The courtyard inside is a peaceful escape from the street noise.
Museums and Cultural Spots
Don’t just walk the main street blindly. There are several small museums tucked away:
| Name | Address | Opening Hours | Ticket |
|---|---|---|---|
| Haikou Qilou Old Street Museum | No. 57 Zhongshan Road | 9:00-17:00 (closed Mon) | Free (need to register at entrance) |
| Hainan Folk Art Museum | No. 23 Boai Road (a side street) | 9:00-18:00 | 20 CNY |
| Zhongshan Road Memorial Hall | No. 89 Zhongshan Road | 8:30-17:00 | Free (ID required) |
I recommend starting at the museum to get some context, then wandering freely. The side streets like Boai Road and Xinhua Road are where you’ll find more authentic local life — hardware stores, incense shops, and old teahouses that haven’t changed in decades.
Photo Spots
The best photo is from the second-floor balcony of the Haikou Qilou Old Street Museum. They have a viewing platform that lets you capture the symmetrical arcades. Also, the intersection of Zhongshan Road and Boai Road offers a classic “disappearing point” shot. Go there at 16:30 for warm light and long shadows.
Where to Eat
You can’t visit Qilou Old Street without eating. The area is a paradise for street food lovers. Here are my go-to spots:
Wenchang Chicken
Look for Wenchang Chicken Restaurant at No. 106 Zhongshan Road. This is not the fancy tourist version; it’s a no-frills joint with plastic stools. The chicken is poached, served cold with ginger and chili dip. A portion costs around 25-35 CNY. I always order extra rice and pour the chicken oil over it — that’s how locals eat.
Hainan Noodles (Hainan Fen)
At Old Street Noodle House (corner of Boai Road), you can get a bowl of Hainan noodles for 12 CNY. The broth is light, topped with dried shrimp, fried garlic, and cilantro. It’s a breakfast staple, but available all day. Be careful: they use a lot of MSG — delicious but might make you thirsty.
Coconut Milk Dessert
Don’t miss the Coconut Uncle stall near the south entrance. He sells fresh coconut milk jelly (about 10 CNY) in a real coconut shell. It’s the perfect refreshment after walking.
| Food | Place | Price Range | My Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wenchang Chicken | No. 106 Zhongshan Road | 25-35 CNY | Go before 12:00 or after 13:30 to avoid lunch rush |
| Hainan Noodles | Corner of Boai Road | 12-15 CNY | Ask for extra fried garlic — it’s free |
| Seafood Steamed Rice | No. 45 Xinhua Road | 20-30 CNY | Comes with a side of spicy pickled vegetables |
Payment: Most small vendors accept WeChat Pay or Alipay. Cash is still accepted but you’ll get change in Chinese coins. International credit cards? Forget it — even some sit-down restaurants only take local payment. I recommend setting up Alipay before you go; it’s accepted almost everywhere.
Practical Tips
- WiFi: Free public WiFi is available on the main street (SSID: Haikou_Free), but it’s slow. Better to get a local SIM card or eSIM. I use China Mobile’s tourist package — about 80 CNY for 10GB.
- Restrooms: There are two public toilets: one near the north entrance (by Starbucks) and another at the south end (by the museum). Cleanliness is average; bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer.
- Accessibility: The arcades are flat, but the side streets have curbs. Wheelchair users may find it challenging. I once accompanied a lady on a mobility scooter, and we had to stick to the main street.
- Weather: Haikou is humid year-round. Carry a small umbrella — it can rain without warning. In summer, a portable fan is a lifesaver.
- Language: English is not widely spoken. Learn a few basic phrases: “Hello” (nǐ hǎo), “Thank you” (xiè xiè), and “How much?” (duō shao qián?). Most shop owners will use calculators to show prices.
FAQ
This content has been fact-checked to ensure informational precision.
No comments yet.